How to Sew a Summer Top with Yoke and Ruffled Sleeves---Method 1

Front

Back

In this method we will sew the top without using a serger. Let's see how to do it.

Step 1: Lay out the pattern pieces you have drafted using the drafting tutorial posted here.

Front and back yoke pieces cut with the outer fabric and lining fabric

Front skirt

Back skirt

Sleeves

Bias strips for armhole

Step 2: Let's start sewing.

Gather the top edge of the back and front skirts by sewing two straight lines of stitches parallel to the top edge, using the longest stitch length setting in your sewing machine. 

Leave a few inches of threads at both the ends.

Then pull the threads to gather the fabric until the top edge of the skirt part is of the same width as the bottom edge of the yoke part. Use your fingers to distribute the gathers evenly across the seam. 

Step 3: With right sides facing each other, join the top's front gathered part to the top's front yoke outer fabric and the top's back gathered part to the top's back yoke outer fabric with a 0.375-inch (0.9525-cm) seam allowance.

Step 4: Then, with right sides facing, join the shoulders of the front and back yoke outer fabrics.

And then repeat this step for the front and back yoke lining fabrics.

Step 5: We will make the ruffled sleeves now.

You can finish the hemline of the sleeves by folding it or by doing a rolled hem by hand or machine. I did the rolled hem by hand. I will soon post a tutorial on how to do rolled hem by hand.

Sew two parallel rows of stitches around the sleeve cap (the curved edge of the sleeve) (I did only one row here as I couldn't manage to sew the second row!) Use the longest stitch in your sewing machine. Leave a few inches of thread at both the ends of the sleeve cap. Pull them to create ruffles until the sleeve cap matches the top's arm hole.

With right sides facing each other, pin the sleeves to the armholes of the outer fabric and then sew them in place.

Step 6: Then place the lining fabric over this, with right side facing down. 

Match the necklines of the outer and lining yoke fabrics. Pin and sew together.

Make small slits in the neck seam allowance as shown below, to get a perfect neckline.  

Turn it inside out and press, and you have got a perfect neckline.

Step 7:  Fold the hemline of the yoke lining fabric by 0.375 inch.

Step 8: Burrito roll method to finish the armholes:

Start rolling the fabric from the left side armhole until you reach the right side armhole.

Bring up the yoke lining fabric from down.

Fold the sleeve inside and sandwich the sleeve cap in between the armholes of the yoke outer and lining fabrics. Sew them all together.

Hope you can see it clearly in the below pictures.

Turn it inside out by gently pulling out the fabric inside the roll.

The armhole will have a clean finish like this on the right side as well as on the wrong side.

Repeat these steps for the other armhole, this time rolling from the right to left. 

Now the raw edges of both the sleeve caps and the armholes till the yoke line are neatly enclosed between the yoke outer and lining fabrics by using the burrito roll method. 

Step 9: Join the sides.

Join the sides with an 0.75-inch seam allowance. 

We will now conceal the raw edges by opening the seam allowance and pressing them. 

Then fold them inward by 0.375 inch and press.

Bring the edges close together and sew along the edge to like so.

This is how your side seams look like with the raw edges hidden inside.

Step 10: Attach bias strips to the armhole under the yoke line. 

Now, we need to cover the raw edges of the armhole under the yoke line.

To do this, first take a 1.5-inch-wide bias strip. Fold one edge of the bias tape 1/4 inch inward and sew along the folded edge.  Next, we will attach the raw edge of the bias strip to the raw edge of the armhole part on the outside the main fabric under the yoke line, with a seam allowance of 3/8 inch. Fold the bias tape entirely inside and sew along the folded edge.

We need to hide both the ends of the bias strip under the yoke lining fabric before the yoke hemline is closed.

(If you don't want to use the burrito roll method for the armholes, you can finish the entire armhole using the bias strips.)

Now sew the hemline of the yoke lining fabric closed at the yoke line to conceal the raw edges of the yoke main fabric and the top's gathered front main fabric.

Step 11: Finish the hemline of the top.

Fold the hemline 0.25 inch. Then fold again 0.50 inch and sew over the folded edge.

Step 12: Insert button and buttonhole plackets at the center back of the top.

First we need to decide how long we want the slit to be.

Measure your kid's head circumference.

Then measure the front and back neckline of the top and add the measurements together. If this total neckline measurement is lesser than your kid's head circumference measurement, then decide the slit length accordingly to avoid the neckline being too tight when popping the top over the head. 

For example, my kid's head circumference is 22 inches and the front + back neckline measurement is 17.5 inches. I have kept the slit length to 7 inches (which means 7 inches on the button placket side and 7 inches on the buttonhole placket side) to easily pop it over the head and take out.

Next we will attach a continuous bound placket for adding in the buttons and buttonhole.

The placket's length is twice the slit length plus a few inches for folding at the top. Mine was 17 inches long. Width was 2 or 2.5 inches. I was running out of the fabric. So, I joined small pieces of the main fabric to get the 17-inch-long placket piece.

With the right side of the placket facing the wrong side of the slit. We will start 0.25 inch away from the top of one side of the slit and come down closer to the V point of the slit and then go up and end 0.25 inch away from the top of the other side of the slit.

Now flatten the seam, fold the outer edge of the placket to the right side of the fabric by 0.25 inch and then fold again to cover the seam line on the slit.

On the right side of the top, fold the placket inside. This is where we will sew the buttonholes.

On the left side the placket, we will sew the buttons.

Turn it to the wrong side. At the V end of the placket join the plackets diagonally like so, to keep them in place. 

Let's sew in the buttons and buttonholes.

And hurrah! We have made a new breezy summer top with a clean finish without a serger.

Happy sewing! I will see you all soon with yet another tutorial or free pattern.

I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

---Flora

Free Sewing Pattern--- Kids' Bermuda Shorts Sizes 1 to 5 Years

Today I have a free sewing pattern for you: Kids' Bermuda shorts for sizes 1 to 5 years. 

Here is the download link.

There are 8 pages to print. Please print Page 1 first to make sure whether the 1 inch x 1 inch test square prints correctly. 

Size Chart:

This is the size chart I used. Measure your kid's hip round and compare the measurement with the hip round measurement in the size chart to find the right size.

Seam allowances are included in the pattern. I have mentioned it in the pattern itself.

This is how you assemble the pattern:

How to Print and Assemble the PDF Pattern Pages:

Click here to learn how to print and assemble the PDF pattern pages. 

I have posted a step-by-step sewing tutorial on this page on my blog.

Check out the free sewing pattern for Bermuda shorts for sizes 6 to 12 years on this page on my blog. 

I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials

Happy sewing!

---Flora 

 

How to Sew Bermuda Shorts?---Sewing Tutorial

In today's sewing tutorial, let's learn how to sew a pair of Bermuda shorts.

First, cut out the pattern pieces using the Free Bermuda shorts PDF printable sewing pattern for kids' sizes 6 to 12 years given here or kids' sizes 1 to 5 years given here or using the pattern drafting tutorial for Bermuda shorts given here.

We have two front pieces and two back pieces to make the shorts.

Now let's make the shorts. 

We can quickly make these shorts in five simple steps.

1. Join the sides.

With the right sides of the front and back fabric pieces facing together, join the sides of the shorts.

2. Sew the center seam (crotch seam).

With right sides facing each other, join the front pieces together at the center seam or crotch seam. Stop at the bottom of the crotch seam and leave the leg part open. (I have shown the seam lines with dotted lines in the picture below. Join these seam lines together and you will get the crotch line at the center front.) Repeat this step for the back pieces as well.

3. Sew the leg seam (inseam).

Join the leg seam (where the black arrow points to in the image).

4. Finish the hemline of the shorts.

Fold the leg hemline half inch inward and press. 

Then fold again 1 inch inward and press. Sew along the lower edge of the fold. Repeat the same steps  for the other leg.

It should look like this. 

5. Finish the elastic waist.

Fold the waistline half inch to the wrong side and press.

Then fold again 1 inch and press. Sew along the lower edge of the fold to create the casing for the elastic.

The waistline fold should look like this:

While making the casing, insert a piece of ribbon or a tag at the center back as it will help identify the back of the shorts. 

Leave a gap of 2 inches in the casing at the front waistline to insert the elastic.

Take an 0.75-inch-wide elastic with its length equal to the waist round of the body measurement minus 1 inch.

Feed the elastic through the casing you just created. 

Match up the ends of the elastic, overlap the ends by about 0.25 inches, and sew them together using two or three rows of stitches or a zigzag stitch.

Let's sew the gap closed in the waistline fold. And we are done!

A new pair of Bermuda shorts is ready now. You can easily make this!

I have posted the another detailed shorts sewing tutorial for an 18-inch doll at this link. I hope it will also be helpful to you.

Front:

Back:

See you all again with the summer top sewing tutorial.

I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Happy sewing!

---Flora

Free Sewing Pattern PDF---Kid's A-Line Dress for Sizes 6 to 12

I have created the most requested A-line dress sewing pattern for kids sizes 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12. Here is the download link.

Once you have downloaded the file, you can print it from your home printer. It will print on 16 A4 sheets which need to be taped together.

How to Print and Assemble the PDF Pattern Pages:

Click here to learn how to print and assemble the PDF pattern pages. 

Pattern assembly is given below:

Size Chart:

This is the size chart I used. Please take your kid's bust round measurement and compare it with the measurement in the size chart to find the right size.

Seam allowances are included in the pattern.

Neck, shoulder, and armhole: 0.5 inch

Side seams: 1 inch 

Hem allowance: 1.5 inch

How to Sew?

I have already posted a three-part step-by-step tutorial here. 

I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Happy sewing!

---Flora

How to Draft a Summer Top with Yoke and Ruffled Sleeves

As summer is around the corner, today we will see how to easily draft a summer top with ruffled sleeves (frill sleeves) and a yoke style line at the front and back.

Front

Back

We will first draft this top using an A-line top pattern. Then at the chest we will add the yoke line which separates the top into two parts: a yoke part and a skirt part. We will then increase the skirt part's width to add some gathers so that we could change the top to a breezy summer top. This top can also be worn as a pajama top. As the last step, we will add ruffled sleeves to the top.

Pattern draft (both front and back draft are shown in the picture below):

[I have given the measurements in centimeters in boldface red-colored text for those who prefer using the metric system of measurements.]

Body measurements needed:

1. Full length of the top

2. Bust round

3. Shoulder width

4. Arm hole depth or scye depth

5. Front neck depth

6. Back neck depth

A to B = full length of the top, from shoulder point at neck to the desired length (the top length usually ends between the waist and hip.)

A to C = shoulder width/2

B to D = 1/4 bust + 2 inches for kids (4 inches for ladies) [1/4 chest + 5.08 cms for kids (10.16 cms for ladies)]

A to F = C to E = 1/4 bust - 1 (or) scye depth (both the measurements will be more or less the same). As this is a loose-fitting top worn in summer, you can lower down the armhole depth under the arms by 0.5 inch or 0.75 inch [1.27 cms to 1.905 cms], if you prefer.

F to G = 1/4 bust + 0.5 to 0.75 inch ease [1/4 chest + 1.27 cms to 1.905 cms ease]

C to H is 0.5 inch for kids and 1 inch for ladies [1.27 cms for kids and 2.54 cms for ladies].

A to I is 1/12 chest or as per your preference.

Join I with H.  IH is the shoulder slope.

Measure H to E. Mark a point L on HE which is half of the H to E measurement.

L to M = 0.5 inch [1.27 cms] for kids and 0.75 inch for ladies [1.905 cms].

Draw the front arm curve and back arm curve as shown in the picture.

Now we will draw the yoke style line. The yoke style line is usually drawn above the bust line. Here, we will calculate the depth of the yoke line A to N as three-fourth of the A to F measurement.

Draw the yoke style line from N, which touches the front arm curve at O and the back arm curve at P.

We will cut through the style line N-O to get the yoke part for the front and N-P to get the same for the back.

I wanted to add some gathers in the front and back skirt parts of the top for some fullness at the yoke line.  

For this, we need to increase the width of the skirt part of the top. So, we add N to Q = B to R =  3 to 5 inches [7.62 to 12.7 cms] (according to the fullness we would like to have at the yoke line).

A to J is back neck depth (usually 1 inch [2.54 cms]).

A to K is front neck depth (usually 1/12 chest + 0.5 inch [1/12 bust + 1.27 cms]).

Square down from C. Mark S where the squared line meets B to D. 

T to D is 0.5 inch for kids (0.75 inch for women).

Shape front and back necklines.

Join TSB with a curved line. This is the hemline.

Sleeve draft:

Now let's move onto the sleeve part. To draft the ruffled sleeve, you will have to measure the front and back arm curves, that is, the armhole measurement. For this, you need to arrange the front and back pieces of the basic A-line top as shown in the picture below.

                                                                  

Then, to add ruffles to the sleeve, you need to double or triple the armhole measurement, whichever you prefer. 

In the picture below, I have kept A to B two times the armhole measurement.

 

C is the center point of AB. Draw a perpendicular line from C and mark the sleeve width CD, which is usually 1 to 1.5 inches [2.54 to 3.81 cms]. We can increase the sleeve width according to our preference. Connect A-D-B. And our ruffled sleeve pattern is ready.

The image below shows the pattern pieces without seam allowances. 

We need to add seam allowances to these pattern pieces. 

Seam allowances for the front and back yoke:

0.375 inch at the neckline, yoke line, and armhole

Seam allowances for front and back skirt:

0.375 inch at the yoke line and armhole

0.75 inch at the side seam

1 inch at the hem line

Seam allowance for the ruffle sleeve:

0.375 inch at the armhole seam

0.50 inch at the hem line

We will cut the pieces on the fabric like this.

I have posted the sewing tutorial of the summer top here. 

I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Happy sewing!

---Flora
 

---Flora

Women's Kurta (Kameez) Free Sewing Pattern---Sizes XS to XXL---for Bust Sizes 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, and 44

I have been working on this kurta (kameez) pattern for a while, and finally it's ready to be posted today. I am so excited to share this pattern with you all.

Image source: Google Images

This is a semi-fitted straight kurta with side slits from the hipline. I have used the standard measurements to make this pattern.

You can increase or decrease the length of the kurta and the length of the sleeve as per your wish. You can also change the front neck depth, add a little flare from the hipline to the bottom hemline and close the side slit, or make a 4-inch slit at the center back from the neckline and finish it with a button and elastic loop closure, if you prefer to do so.

You can also use this pattern to make a shift dress.

There are totally 49 pages. Print the pattern on A4-sized papers.

Select "Actual size" when you print the pages.

How to Print and Assemble the PDF Pattern Pages:

Click here to learn how to print and assemble the PDF pattern pages. 

The pattern assembly is given below.  

The pattern download link is HERE. 

Note: Seam allowances are included in the pattern. 

Given below are the details of the seam allowances included in the pattern:

Kurta front and back pieces:

For neckline, shoulders, and sleeve cap, seam allowance is 0.375 inch.

For side seams: 1 inch

Hemline: 1.5 inches

Sleeve:

For sleeve cap: 0.375 inch

For side seams: 1 inch

Sleeve hemline: 1.5 inches

Please check this link on my blog if you want to learn how to draft a kurta or kameez: Kameez pattern draft. 

I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Happy sewing!

---Flora

Free Sewing Pattern---Women's Kurta (or Kameez) Size XS (Bust Size 30)

Recently I drafted the pattern for women's kameez (or kurta) in size XS (for a bust size of 30 inches). This is a medium-fit kameez.

Ease is included in the pattern, but seam allowances are not included. Please add seam allowances as given below.

Seam allowances to be added to the pattern: 

Around neck: 0.50 inch

Sleeve cap: 0.50 inch

Sleeve hemline: 1.5 inches

Shoulders: 0.50 inch

Side seam: 1 inch

Bottom hemline 2 inches

Body measurements used in this pattern:

Bust round: 30 inches

Waist round: 24 inches

Hip round: 34 inches

How to Print and Assemble the PDF Pattern Pages:

Click here to learn how to print and assemble the PDF pattern pages. 

I have drawn a small line at the front side seam and back side seam in the pattern to indicate the starting point for sewing the side slit. 

I have numbered the pattern pages from 1 to 15. Assemble the A4 pattern pages as given in the picture below and you will get your pattern together:

Here is the link to download the pattern: Kameez (kurta) free pattern pdf.  

Please check this link if you want to learn how to draft a kurta or kameez: Kameez pattern draft. 

I will soon post the kurta pattern in other sizes too. 

Note: You can find the kurta pattern in all sizes from XS to XXL at this link.

I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Happy sewing

---Flora