How to Draft a Summer Top with Yoke and Ruffled Sleeves

As summer is around the corner, today we will see how to easily draft a summer top with ruffled sleeves (frill sleeves) and a yoke style line at the front and back.

Front

Back

We will first draft this top using an A-line top pattern. Then at the chest we will add the yoke line which separates the top into two parts: a yoke part and a skirt part. We will then increase the skirt part's width to add some gathers so that we could change the top to a breezy summer top. This top can also be worn as a pajama top. As the last step, we will add ruffled sleeves to the top.

Pattern draft (both front and back draft are shown in the picture below):

[I have given the measurements in centimeters in boldface red-colored text for those who prefer using the metric system of measurements.]

Body measurements needed:

1. Full length of the top

2. Bust round

3. Shoulder width

4. Arm hole depth or scye depth

5. Front neck depth

6. Back neck depth

A to B = full length of the top, from shoulder point at neck to the desired length (the top length usually ends between the waist and hip.)

A to C = shoulder width/2

B to D = 1/4 bust + 2 inches for kids (4 inches for ladies) [1/4 chest + 5.08 cms for kids (10.16 cms for ladies)]

A to F = C to E = 1/4 bust - 1 (or) scye depth (both the measurements will be more or less the same). As this is a loose-fitting top worn in summer, you can lower down the armhole depth under the arms by 0.5 inch or 0.75 inch [1.27 cms to 1.905 cms], if you prefer.

F to G = 1/4 bust + 0.5 to 0.75 inch ease [1/4 chest + 1.27 cms to 1.905 cms ease]

C to H is 0.5 inch for kids and 1 inch for ladies [1.27 cms for kids and 2.54 cms for ladies].

A to I is 1/12 chest or as per your preference.

Join I with H.  IH is the shoulder slope.

Measure H to E. Mark a point L on HE which is half of the H to E measurement.

L to M = 0.5 inch [1.27 cms] for kids and 0.75 inch for ladies [1.905 cms].

Draw the front arm curve and back arm curve as shown in the picture.

Now we will draw the yoke style line. The yoke style line is usually drawn above the bust line. Here, we will calculate the depth of the yoke line A to N as three-fourth of the A to F measurement.

Draw the yoke style line from N, which touches the front arm curve at O and the back arm curve at P.

We will cut through the style line N-O to get the yoke part for the front and N-P to get the same for the back.

I wanted to add some gathers in the front and back skirt parts of the top for some fullness at the yoke line.  

For this, we need to increase the width of the skirt part of the top. So, we add N to Q = B to R =  3 to 5 inches [7.62 to 12.7 cms] (according to the fullness we would like to have at the yoke line).

A to J is back neck depth (usually 1 inch [2.54 cms]).

A to K is front neck depth (usually 1/12 chest + 0.5 inch [1/12 bust + 1.27 cms]).

Square down from C. Mark S where the squared line meets B to D. 

T to D is 0.5 inch for kids (0.75 inch for women).

Shape front and back necklines.

Join TSB with a curved line. This is the hemline.

Sleeve draft:

Now let's move onto the sleeve part. To draft the ruffled sleeve, you will have to measure the front and back arm curves, that is, the armhole measurement. For this, you need to arrange the front and back pieces of the basic A-line top as shown in the picture below.

                                                                  

Then, to add ruffles to the sleeve, you need to double or triple the armhole measurement, whichever you prefer. 

In the picture below, I have kept A to B two times the armhole measurement.

 

C is the center point of AB. Draw a perpendicular line from C and mark the sleeve width CD, which is usually 1 to 1.5 inches [2.54 to 3.81 cms]. We can increase the sleeve width according to our preference. Connect A-D-B. And our ruffled sleeve pattern is ready.

The image below shows the pattern pieces without seam allowances. 

We need to add seam allowances to these pattern pieces. 

Seam allowances for the front and back yoke:

0.375 inch at the neckline, yoke line, and armhole

Seam allowances for front and back skirt:

0.375 inch at the yoke line and armhole

0.75 inch at the side seam

1 inch at the hem line

Seam allowance for the ruffle sleeve:

0.375 inch at the armhole seam

0.50 inch at the hem line

We will cut the pieces on the fabric like this.

I have posted the sewing tutorial of the summer top here. 

I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Happy sewing!

---Flora
 

---Flora