Today we will see how to draft the basic bodice pattern for kids.
You need to take the following measurements to draft the bodice:
Vertical measurements:
1. Length of the bodice
2. Armhole depth (armscye depth)
3. Front neck depth
4. Back neck depth
Horizontal measurements:
1. Bust round
2. Waist round
3. Across shoulder measurement (from shoulder point to shoulder point)
4. Neck width
Pattern draft:
First, we will mark all the vertical measurements.
A-B = Bodice length (from the shoulder point at neck to the waistline.)
A-C = Armhole depth
A-D = Front neck depth
A-E = Back neck depth
Now, let's mark all the horizontal measurements.
A-F = Across shoulder measurement/2
F-G = Shoulder width you prefer to have for the bodice
(or)
A-G = Neck width/2 + 0.25 inch to 0.50 inch (or) bust round/12 + 0.25 inch to 0.50 inch
C-H defines the armhole depth line. Bust line is around 1 to 1.5 inches below the armhole depth line.
C-H = Bust round/4 + 0.75 inch (0.75 inch is the ease here. You can increase or decrease the ease according to the type of fabric you are going to use and the fit you prefer.)
B to I = Waist round/4 + 0.625 inch (0.625 inch is the ease here. You can increase or decrease the ease according to the type of fabric you are going to use and the fit you prefer.
F-J = 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Join GJ to create the shoulder slope.
Let's draft the armhole.
Square down a line from F. Mark a point K where this line meets C-H.
Measure the length of J to K. L is half of J-K. Mark M 0.5 inch from L.
Join JMH to create the front armhole curve.
Join JLH to create the back armhole curve.
Let's draft the neckline.
Square down a line from G. Draw a horizontal line from D such that it crosses the vertical line from G. Using these lines as guides, draw the front neckline curve.
Then, draw a horizontal line from E such that it crosses the vertical line from G. Using these lines as guides, draw the back neckline curve.
B to N is 0.5 inch. Join I-N. (This is only for the front bodice.)
That's it! We have drafted the kids' basic front and back bodice patterns. Once you have traced the pattern pieces from the draft, they will look like this:
Now, let's add seam allowances to it.
The seam allowances I have used are:
3/8 inch for the neckline, shoulders, armholes, and for the bottom seams (where we will attach the skirt) and 3/4 inch for the side seams.
You can use this basic bodice draft to design dresses, jumpsuits, etc.
I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.
Happy sewing
---Flora
