Here's another free PDF printable sewing pattern for 18-inch dolls---Empire waist dress with two sleeve variations: short sleeves and puff sleeves with fullness at the hemline.
The measurements of the doll I used are
Chest 11.5 inches
Waist 11 inches
Hip 11.75 inches
This pattern will fit 18-inch dolls such as the American Girl® Doll and Our Generation® Doll and dolls with similar body measurements.
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Seam and hem allowances:
Seam and hem allowances are included in the pattern.
1/4 inch seam allowance for the shoulders, neckline, bodice armhole, sleeve cap, sleeve hemline, bodice bottom edge, skirt top edge, and sleeve band top and bottom edges.
1/2 inch seam allowance for the sides of the bodice, sleeves, and the skirt.
3/4 inch for skirt hem allowance.
Download link:
Click here to download the pattern.
How to print?
Print the page on A4-size papers. Make sure you have set page sizing to "Actual size" before you print the pattern.
You can measure the 1 inch x 1 inch square in the pattern page to check whether the page has printed correctly.
How to cut the pattern pieces from the fabric?
Place the front and back bodice pieces on the folded main fabric.
Trace the outline of the bodice pieces with a pencil.
Cut out the bodice pieces.
Cut though the fold at the center back to get two back bodice pieces.
Repeat the same steps to cut the bodice pieces from the lining fabric.
Then cut out the skirt pieces and sleeves.
Sleeves:
Place the sleeve pattern on the folded main fabric as shown in the picture below.
Trace around the pattern using a pencil.
Cut out from the fabric.
Now cut through the fold to get two sleeve pieces.
How to sew the empire waist dress?
Step 1: Let's make the bodice.
With right sides facing, join the front and back main fabric bodice pieces at the shoulders.
Open the shoulder seams and press them flat.
Repeat the same steps for the front and back pieces that you cut from the lining fabric.
Step 2: Attach the sleeves.
Sew two parallel lines close to the top edge of the sleeve cap with the longest stitch length on your machine.
Pull the thread ends to fit the sleeve cap to the bodice armhole curve.
With right sides together, pin the sleeve cap to the bodice armhole.
Sew the sleeves to the bodice armhole.
While attaching the sleeve cap to the armhole, leave a one-inch gap on both sides of the sleeve cap.
Repeat these steps for the other side as well.
Now fold the sleeves as shown in the pictures below.
Place the lining fabric bodice pieces on top of this with right side facing down, like so.
Pin the lining fabric bodice armholes onto the sleeve caps already attached to the main fabric bodice armholes, so that the sleeve caps are sandwiched between the main and lining fabric bodice armholes.
Sew them all together.
Step 3: Finish the neckline and button extensions on the back bodice.
Line up the shoulder seams and stitch the front and back pieces around the neckline and button extensions at the back with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Leave the bottom edges and the side seams open.
Clip the corners, so the edges look crisp when you flip the bodice inside out.
Now flip the bodice inside out. Hem the bottom edges of the sleeves. You can also sew the sleeve hemline before attaching the sleeves to the bodice armholes. That would be even easier.
Step 4: Join the sides.
Now, open up the sides of the front and back bodice pieces and line up the side seams. Then sew the side seams of the lining and main fabric bodices separately, leaving the gap we left at the armhole in step 2 still open.
We will do the french seams for the sides of the sleeves.
On the main fabric side of the sleeve, join the sides with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Then flip it to the lining side, and join the sides again with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. The raw edges are consealed now.
Remember the gap we left before at the bottom of the armhole? We need to close it now. Let's do it!
This is how it looks on the lining side.
Now open up the sides and sew this gap closed.
Repeat the same steps for the other sleeve.
Now you have a fully lined bodice that does not have any raw edges.
Step 5: Make the skirt.
Button extensions:
Fold the button closure (center back) edges of the skirt back pieces first 1/4 inch and then 1/2 inch and sew over the folded edges.
Side seams:
You can finish the sides of the skirt either using the French seam method as we did for the sleeve sides or join the side seams and trim off 1/4 inch and serge the raw edges.
First, with right sides together line up the side seams of the front and back pieces of the skirt.
Join the sides with an half inch seam allowance.
Trim off 1/4 inch on both sides.
Serge the edges.
Hemline:
Fold the hemline 1/4 inch first and then 1/2 inch again and sew over the folded edge.
Step 6: Join the skirt to the bodice.
First, trim off 1/4 inch from the side seams of the bodice to avoid bulk.
Press open the seams.
Now, fold the bottom edge of the bodice main and lining by 1/4 inch and press.
Attach the top edge of the skirt to the bottom edge of the main fabric right sides together, and conceal this seam by placing the bottom edge of the lining fabric over this and sewing over the folded edge. I whipstitched by hand so that the stitches are not visible. But you can sew with a machine if you prefer that.
Attach Velcro at the back for closure.
That's it! You have made a beautiful empire waist dress for your doll!
Happy sewing!
---Flora
