What is a Mandarin collar?
Mandarin collar (also known as stand collar) is a close-fitting collar that stands upward from the neckline. The opening for this collar is usually kept at the front.
Measurements needed to draft the collar:
1. Total neckline measurement
2. Neckline measurement from center back to shoulder point at the neck
3. Neckline measurement from center front to shoulder point at the neck
How to draft the Mandarin collar?
A to B = Half of the total neckline measurement
A to C = 1.5 inches (height of the collar, i.e., collar width. This can be increased or decreased as per your preference. But 1.5 inches [3.81 cm] is the standard width.)
B to D is same as A to C.
D to C is same as A to B.
A to E is the neckline measurement from center back to shoulder point at the neck.
Square up 0.50 inch (1.27 cm) from B. Mark and label F.
Draw a curved line from F to E.
Now AEF is the base of the collar (that is, the neckline edge of the collar).
Mark G such that DG = 0.25 inch (0.635 cm).
Square 1.5 inches from F that passes through G.
F to G = A to C = 1.5 inches
Draw a line from H to C, parallel to AEF.
HC is the top edge of the collar.
This is the pattern piece:
This is how the collar is cut from a folded fabric. The fold is on the center back line.
This is how the collar looks after it is cut from the fabric. Cut two collar pieces from the main fabric and one collar piece from fusible interfacing. Fusible interfacing is added for stability.
Add 0.375 (3/8) inch (1 cm) seam allowance all around the collar pattern.
We can also change the collar to have a curved corner as below.
Click here to see the step-by-step tutorial on how to attach the Mandarin collar to the neckline of a dress.
Happy Sewing!
---Flora
