Click the link below to browse all the free PDF sewing patterns for women:
Let's dive into the tutorial.
Princess Seams for a Flattering Fit
Shoulder princess seams gently shape the bodice, providing a smooth, curve-following fit without darts.
What Is a Princess Seam?
A princess seam is a long, shaped seam that runs over the bust point, creating a smooth, contoured fit through the bodice. It provides shaping without the use of traditional darts.
There are two main types of princess seams:
1. Shoulder Princess Seam – begins at the mid-shoulder, curves over the bust point, and continues down to the waist.
2. Armhole (Armscye) Princess Seam – begins at the mid-armhole, passes over the bust point, and extends to the waist.
The seamline is gently curved to follow the natural contours of the body, especially around the bust area. Princess seams effectively incorporate the shaping that would otherwise be formed by darts — they replace dart legs and serve the same purpose of controlling fullness for a better fit.
Beginner-Friendly Construction
With clear seam lines and simple edges, this top is an easy project for those new to garment sewing.
Sizing & Fit
This pattern is drafted for a figure with a full bust measurement of 36 inches and an upper bust measurement of 34 inches, corresponding to a B cup in pattern drafting. (Note: this cup size refers to the difference between the full bust and upper bust measurements, which is used for fitting adjustments, and is not the same as a bra cup size, which is based on the difference between the full bust and underbust measurements.)
In pattern drafting, the cup size is determined by:
A cup: 1" difference between upper bust and full bust
B cup: 2" difference
C cup: 3" difference
D cup: 4" difference, etc.
Recommended Fabrics
Choose a light- to medium-weight woven fabric with good drape:
* Cotton lawn or poplin for crisp structure
* Rayon challis or crepe for a softer look
* Linen blends for breathable summer wear
Avoid fabrics with a lot of stretch, as the pattern is designed for stable weaves.
What You’ll Need
*This post contains affiliate links, which means I make a small commission at no extra cost to you.
Sewing Supplies Needed:
1. Fabric
2. Free printable PDF sewing pattern (pattern link is given below)
4. Sewing machine (I am using Janome and Bernina. Both are excellent sewing machines. Brother is equally good too. I have heard good reviews about it.)
5. Sewing machine thread (I prefer using Gütermann and Coats, which are of great quality.)
6. Tape measure
7. Sewing pins
8. Serger (I am using Brother M343D, which works great.)
Step-by-Step Instructions
1. Download the Free Pattern
You can download the PDF pattern (link provided below) and print it at home on A4 or Letter-sized paper. Simply cut, tape, and start sewing.
How to Print and Assemble the PDF Pattern Pages:
Pattern Assembly:
The diagram below is given as a guide to assemble the pattern pages. There are 8 pages in the pattern PDF. And these pages are arranged as shown in the diagram.
2. Cut Your Fabric
Cut out all pieces: front bodice (split into center and side panels), back bodice (same) from both the lining and main fabrics.
Transfer all markings and notches.
3. Sew the Princess Seams
Pin and sew the front side panels of the main fabric to the front center panels, easing curves gently.
Repeat for the back bodice.
Press seams toward the center or press them open and topstitch if desired.
Repeat the same for the front and back of the lining pieces as well.
4. Assemble the Button Placket
Interface the placket area.
5. Join Front and Back Bodices
Sew shoulder seams.
6. Join Armholes, Neckline, and Center Front, and Side Seams
With right sides of the lining and main fabric facing, sew the armholes, neckline, and center front.
Press for a clean edge.
Sew side seams.
Press all seams open.
7. Hem the Bottom and Sew the Buttons and Buttonholes
Fold up the hem (1/2 inch).
Stitch close to the folded edge.
Mark buttonholes on the button placket and sew them.
Attach buttons.
8. Final Touches
Add any decorative topstitching.
Give the garment a final press.
Try it on and admire your work!
With its clean lines, flattering fit, and simple construction, this Shoulder Princess Seam Sleeveless Top is sure to become a wardrobe staple.
👉Download the Free Pattern for the Shoulder Princess Seam Top Here
Here is a clear, practical guide to ensure your shoulder princess seam front bodice pieces align exactly during sewing:
1. Mark Key Notches
Transfer all notches from the pattern accurately:
Notches above/below bust curve where easing is required.
2. Staystitch the Curves
Staystitch along the curved edges (both pieces) just inside the seam allowance to prevent stretching.
This is crucial for the side front piece’s concave curve, which can easily stretch.
3. Clip the Curved Seam (Concave Piece)
Clip into the seam allowance of the concave (side front) piece along the curve, about every ½”–¾” up to but not through the staystitch.
This allows the edge to spread and match the convex curve of the center front piece.
4. Pin Strategically
Pin at the notches first.
Pin at the ends (top shoulder and bottom waist).
Ease the fabric gently between pins, adding additional pins as needed.
The center front piece will have extra fullness, which you will ease into the side front smoothly.
5. Baste Before Sewing
Hand-baste or machine-baste using a long stitch length before the final stitch.
This helps you adjust easing and prevents puckers along the bust curve.
6. Sew with the Gathered Side Up
Place the side front (concave, clipped piece) against the feed dogs and the center front (convex) on top.
The feed dogs will help ease in fullness while you guide the top fabric smoothly.
Press Immediately
Press the seam over a tailor’s ham to preserve the shape of the curve.
Press seam allowances toward the center front or press open the seam allowances.
Summary Checklist:
✅ Same seam allowances?
✅ Accurate notches?
✅ Staystitched curves?
✅ Clipped concave edges?
✅ Pinned at key points first?
✅ Basted before final sewing?
✅ Sew with gathered side down?
✅ Press over tailor’s ham?
Styling Ideas
* Pair with jeans and flats for a casual weekend look.
* Tuck into a pencil skirt for a chic office outfit.
* Layer under a blazer or cardigan for transitional weather.
Happy Sewing!
---Flora
