Today let's learn how to draft a puffed sleeve that has fullness at the shoulders (i.e., at the cap) and at the hemline.
You need to take these sleeve measurements to draft this pattern:
1. Sleeve cap (from shoulder edge to biceps)
2. Biceps circumference
3. Sleeve length (here it is up to the elbow)
4. Elbow circumference (to determine the length of the elastic or sleeve band at the hemline)
Puffed sleeve draft:
We will develop the puffed sleeve draft from a basic sleeve draft.
This is how we do it:
We will see this process step by step. First, we will start with basic sleeve draft.
A to C = Sleeve cap length (that is, from shoulder edge to biceps)
C to D = C to E = Biceps circumference/2
Square down from D and E.
B to F = B to G which is the same Biceps circumference/2 as C to D = C to E.
Connect D to A and E to A.
Mark H from E which is EA/2
Shape front sleeve curve EHA.
Mark point I from D which is DA/2.
Mark point J 0.5 inch from point I, perpendicular to the line DIA.
Shape back sleeve curve DJA.
Now, we will add fullness to this sleeve at the shoulders and at the hemline.
To do this, divide the sleeve into equal parts as shown in the picture below.
Cut through these lines and spread them each 1.5 inches apart.
And now draw the sleeve shape again to complete the pattern.
This is the final puffed sleeve pattern---the puffed sleeve that has fullness at the shoulders and at the hemline.
Lastly, add seam allowances to the sleeve cap curve and sides, and hem allowance at the hemline.
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Happy Sewing!
---Flora
