Today we will see how to draft a simple A-line top. We have already used this draft when we drafted the summer top pattern. We will see it in detail here so that you will easily understand.
You will need the following measurements to draft this top:
1. Full length of the top
2. Bust round
3. Shoulder width
4. Arm hole depth or scye depth
5. Front neck depth
6. Back neck depth
How to Draft:
A to C = shoulder width/2
B to D = 1/4 bust + 2 inches for kids (4 inches for ladies) [1/4 chest + 5.08 cms for kids (10.16 cms for ladies). You can add some extra inches if you want more flare at the hemline.]
A to F = C to E = 1/4 bust - 1 (or) scye depth (both the measurements will be more or less the same). (As this is a loose-fitting top worn in summer, you can lower down the armhole depth under the arms by 0.5 inch or 0.75 inch [1.27 cms to 1.905 cms], if you prefer.)
F to G = 1/4 bust + 0.5 to 0.75 inch ease [1/4 chest + 1.27 cms to 1.905 cms ease] (Note: You can increase ease according to the type of fabric and the fit you prefer---loose-fit, medium-fit, or close-fit. For this top, I prefer to have 0.5 to 0.75 inch ease. Remember that ease defines the fit of your clothing.)
C to H is 0.5 inch to 0.75 inch for kids and 1 inch for ladies [1.27 cms to 1.905 cms kids and 2.54 cms for ladies].
A to I is 1/12 chest or as per your preference.
Join I with H. IH is the shoulder slope.
Measure H to E. Mark a point L on HE which is half of the H to E measurement.
L to M = 0.5 inch [1.27 cms] for kids and 0.75 inch for ladies [1.905 cms].
Draw the front arm curve and back arm curve as shown in the picture.
A to J is back neck depth (usually 1 inch [2.54 cms]).
A to K is front neck depth (usually 1/12 chest + 0.5 inch [1/12 bust + 1.27 cms]).
Square down from C. Mark O where the squared line meets B to D.
N to D is 0.5 inch for kids (0.75 inch for women).
Shape front and back necklines.
Join NOB with a curved line. This is the hemline.
We are done with the drafting.
This is how the front and back patterns will look like:
Seam allowances:
Now, we need to add the seam allowances.
For the neckline, shoulder, and armhole let's keep 0.375 inch (0.95 cm)
For the side seams 0.5 inch (1.27 cm). You can increase this if you prefer.
For the hemline, it is 1 inch (2.54 cm).
This is how top's front and back pieces will look like after you cut them out from the fabric:
While sewing the top, make a slit at the back and add a loop and button at the top of the back neck for closure, as the neckline in this pattern draft will be lesser than the person's head circumference. Or you can increase the front and back neck depth in the pattern itself. Or you can add button and buttonhole plackets at the back.
For example, I drafted this pattern for a 1-year-old baby. The head circumference of a 1-year-old baby is 18 inches. The neckline of this draft measures 10 inches. So, I will make a 4.25-inch slit at the back so that the top can be easily pulled over the head. Or I will attach a continuous bound placket as I have explained in the summer top sewing tutorial.
I will soon post the sewing tutorial for this top.
If you have any questions, please let me know in the comments section.
For your easy reference, I have organized my blog posts under the following sections. Hope it's useful to you:
These links appear at the top of my blog as well.
Happy sewing!
---Flora
