Step 8:
The pattern draft for the front part of the dress is over. Now we will draft the pattern for the back.
Mark M 0.5 inch from L. Mark N 1 inch from I. Join G-M-N-I to shape the back armhole. Other measurements are same including the dart. Draw the empire line as you did for the front side.
Please include the dart intake as per your requirement. The dart intake I kept in this dress was 0.50 inch (this will be 0.75 inch or more for females above 14 years).
Step 9:
Cut through the empire line to get the back bodice and skirt pieces.
Back Bodice:
The only change to the back bodice is to mark the new dart base point X.
Step 10:
Unfold the back bodice draft and cut through the center back to separate right and left back pieces. Draw the seam allowances. It is 0.5 inch on all the sides except on the neckline and for joining the button and buttonhole closures, for which a 0.25 inch seam allowance is required. Extend the dart legs as shown in the figure.
I joined the button and buttonhole closures separately. They are drafted as follows:
The left one is for button closure.
A to B = C to D = Center back length + 1.5 inch (1 inch for fold at the neckline and 0.5 inch for the seam allowance for joining at the waistline.)
A to C = B to D = 2.5 inches
The right one is for buttonhole closure.
E to F = G to H = Center back length + 1.5 inch (1 inch for fold at the neckline and 0.5 inch for the seam allowance for joining at the waistline.)
E to G = F to H = 1.5 inches
Step 11:
Back skirt:
Extend the dart legs as you did for the front skirt. Mark X 3/4 inch (can be 1inch for women's size) from Q and draw a curved line connecting B and X.
Step 12:
Add seam allowances---0.5 inch for waist and sides and 1.25 inch for hemline fold. Extend the dart legs upward.
Tomorrow I will show you how to draft the sleeves.
You can see how to draft the front here.
Step 9:
Cut through the empire line to get the back bodice and skirt pieces.
Back Bodice:
The only change to the back bodice is to mark the new dart base point X.
Step 10:
Unfold the back bodice draft and cut through the center back to separate right and left back pieces. Draw the seam allowances. It is 0.5 inch on all the sides except on the neckline and for joining the button and buttonhole closures, for which a 0.25 inch seam allowance is required. Extend the dart legs as shown in the figure.
I joined the button and buttonhole closures separately. They are drafted as follows:
A to B = C to D = Center back length + 1.5 inch (1 inch for fold at the neckline and 0.5 inch for the seam allowance for joining at the waistline.)
A to C = B to D = 2.5 inches
The right one is for buttonhole closure.
E to F = G to H = Center back length + 1.5 inch (1 inch for fold at the neckline and 0.5 inch for the seam allowance for joining at the waistline.)
E to G = F to H = 1.5 inches
Step 11:
Back skirt:
Step 12:
Add seam allowances---0.5 inch for waist and sides and 1.25 inch for hemline fold. Extend the dart legs upward.
Tomorrow I will show you how to draft the sleeves.
You can see how to draft the front here.
Sleeve draft is discussed here.
I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.
You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.
Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.
Happy Sewing!
---Flora
