This top has two parts: the bodice part and the peplum part. The bodice is drafted up to the waist, and the peplum part extends up to the hip line. However, you can decrease the length of this top by reducing the length of the peplum part.
The bodice part is open at the center front, and cloth ties are attached for fastening. The top can be worn as a sleeveless top, or different styles of sleeves can be attached. In this draft, I have shown how to draft a puffed sleeve that has fullness at the shoulders and at the hemline, which ends at the elbow.
Front Bodice:
Measurements Needed:
For Bodice:
1. Top length (for this draft it is the length from the neck up to the hip.)
2. Waist length (from neck to waist)
3. Scye depth
4. Front neck depth
5. Back neck depth
6. Bust round
7. Shoulder (from one shoulder edge point to the other shoulder edge point)
8. Neck width
For Peplum:
1. Waist to hip length (i.e., top' full length minus the bodice length)
For Sleeves:
1. Sleeve cap (from shoulder to biceps)
2. Biceps circumference
3. Sleeve length (here it is up to the elbow)
4. Elbow circumference
Pattern Draft:
Front and Back Bodices:
A-B = Waist length
Draw horizontal lines from A, C, and B.
A to C = Scye depth + 0.5 inch
A to D = Shoulder/2 + 0.25 inch
A to E = Neck width/2 + 0.5 inch (or bust round/12 + 0.25. You can change this according to how wider you want the neckline to be.)
Square down from D and E.
D to F = 1 inch
A to G = Front neck depth
Shape front neckline EG.
C to H = Bust round/4 + 1 inch ease (This is a loose-fitted top. So I have added a design ease of 1 inch here. You can change it as per your preference.)
Mark point I on the squared down line from D where it meets the horizontal line CH.
I to J = inch
Mark K, which is midpoint of FJ.
K to L = 3/4 inch
Shape front bodice armhole FLJH.
Square down from H.
Mark point M where this squared down line meets the horizontal line from B. (CH is equal to BM)
M to N = 3/4 inch.
As we have opening at the center front bodice, we need to cut two pieces for the front bodice, one for the left and one for the right.
Back Bodice:
Same as for the front bodice, except the neckline and armhole.
A to Q = Back neck depth (This measurement is lesser than the front neck depth for this top.)
Shape back bodice armhole FKH.
Back bodice is cut on fold.
Top's peplum part:
For the peplum part of the top, you will need a rectangular piece of fabric with width (i.e. height of the peplum) that is equal to your waist to hip measurement (you can decrease the height as per your preference) and length that is 1.5 or 2 times (according to where you want to have the seams and how much fullness you prefer) the bottom round measurement of your stitched bodice. We will create gathers on the top of this rectangular piece to make its length equal to the bottom round measurement of our stitched bodice and then sew them together on the wrong side.
Sleeve:
Please check the below link to learn how to draft the puffed sleeve pattern that has fullness both at the shoulders and at the hemline.
Seam allowances:
Seam allowances are included in the pattern.
Top's bodice part:
1/2 inch for the neck line, armhole, and the center front
1 inch for the sides
Seam allowances for the peplum part of the top:
1/2 for the top of the rectangle
1/2 inch for the bottom hemline of the rectangle
1/2 inch on each of the width sides to attach the bias tape at the center front (if you want the peplum to be open at the center front.) (But you can keep the center front closed as well.)
(or)
if you want the peplum to be closed at the center front, leave a 1/2-inch seam allowance on each of the width sides and join at the center front.
(or)
If you want the seams to be on the sides, then cut the rectangular piece vertically into two pieces, add 1 inch seam allowances on all the four width sides. Join these two rectangular pieces together on both sides, gather them at the top, and pin it to the bottom round of the bodice, making sure you match the side seams of the bodice and peplum and sew them together on the wrong side.
Seam allowances for the sleeve:
1 inch for the sides
3/4 in for the hemline
1/2 inch for the sleeve cap curve
I have posted a free PDF sewing pattern for this top at this link. Click the link to download the pattern pages to make this beautiful top for you.
Click on the link Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.
Click the links below to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.
Happy sewing!
---Flora
