Empire Waist Dress with Overlapping Front Bodice and Two Sleeve Variations---Free PDF Printable Sewing Pattern---Kids' Size 1 Year

I want to share with you all today the free PDF printable sewing pattern of an empire waist dress with overlapping front bodice and with two sleeve variations---a short sleeve and a puff sleeve---for girls' size 1 year. I have also included in the pattern a bow and a ribbon that can be attached at the front bodice to enhance the look of the dress.

How to Print and Assemble the PDF Pattern Pages:

Click here to learn how to print and assemble the PDF pattern pages. 

This is a 9-page PDF file.

Print the pages on A4 or US letter size papers. Make sure you have set page sizing to "Actual size" before you print the pattern. 

You can measure the 1 inch x 1 inch square in the pattern page to check whether the page has printed correctly.

Stick the page tiles together at the margins, using the numbers printed on each page.

This is how the pattern pages are assembled together. 

Seam and hem allowances:

*Seam and hem allowances are included in the pattern. 

Bodice front: neckline, shoulder, and armhole 3/8 inch, side seam 3/4 inch, bottom edge seam 1/2 inch

Bodice back: neckline, shoulder, and armhole 3/8 inch, side seam 3/4 inch, center back 1/4 inch, bottom edge seam 1/2 inch

Skirt front and back: top edge seam 1/2 inch, side seam 3/4 inch, hemline 1 1/4 inch

Short sleeve: sleeve cap 3/8 inch, side seam 1/2 inch, hemline 3/4 inch

Puff sleeve: sleeve cap 3/8 inch, side seam 1/2 inch, hemline 1/4 inch

Sleeve band: top edge and the bottom edge 1/4 inch, side seam 3/4 inch

Bow main piece: 1/4 inch on all the sides

Ribbon under the bow: 1/4 inch on all the sides

*Use the seam allowances mentioned here for this pattern.

There's only one change in the back pieces. We won't be attaching buttonhole and button extensions separately as shown in the sewing tutorial. Instead, I have extended the center back 1/2 inch to add in the buttons and buttonholes. When you join the main and lining back pieces, use an 1/4 inch seam allowance at the center back. 

Click this link to download the free PDF sewing pattern for the empire waist dress with overlapping front bodice---size 1 year.

Click this link for the sewing tutorial of this dress. 

I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Happy Sewing!

---Flora

How to Draft the Pattern for a Basic Dress with Gathered Skirt, In-Seam Pockets, and Cap Sleeves

I was planning to make a dress for my younger daughter. These are the sketches I did for the dress, with two sleeve variations: a cap sleeve and a long sleeve.

My daughter chose the first option with cap sleeves. She selected a vintage-style mint green floral fabric for the dress's skirt and a solid white fabric for the bodice and sleeves. 

This is the look we preferred.

While drafting the pattern I thought I must share the pattern drafting tutorial here on my blog. So today, let's learn how to draft a basic dress that has a gathered skirt with hidden in-seam pockets and cap sleeves.  

We will break down the tutorial into four steps:

1. The basic bodice

2. The gathered skirt 

3. The in-seam pockets and

4. The cap sleeves

We will need the following measurements to draft the pattern for this dress:

1. Full length of the dress (from the highest point of the shoulder to the knee)

2. Bodice length (from the highest point of the shoulder to the waist)

3. Across shoulder measurement (from shoulder point to shoulder point)

4. Armhole depth

5. Bust round

6. Waist round

7. Front neck depth

8. Back neck depth

9. Neck width

10. Biceps round

11. Sleeve cap length 

12. Length of the cap sleeve (Usually lesser than the cap height)

1. The basic bodice

I have posted a detailed tutorial on how to draft kids' basic bodice on this page. Please check.

I have made some changes to the back bodice draft.

I wanted to add buttons and buttonholes at the center back.

For this we need to extend the center back to accommodate for the button and buttonhole overlaps. We need to first determine the width of the button (diameter of the button) that we are going to sew on the center back line. (The red line in the picture below is the center back line.) I am planning to use 1/2-inch-wide buttons. So my button stand will extend 1/2 inch from the center back line. (Generally, a button stand is extended 3/4 inch from the center line. This is the standard width used in the garment industry. 

Here, the diameter of the button I want to use is 1/2 inch. Therefore I have extended the button stand 1/2 inch from the center back line. If we want to use a button with an 1 inch diameter, then we should extend the button stand 1 inch from the center line.)

I wanted to draft a self-faced button stand. Therefore, we will add another 1 inch to the width of the button stand. The green line indicates the added width that needs to be folded inside. We can either serge along the green line to conceal the raw edge, or we can add an extra 1/4 inch to fold and hide the raw edge. Here in this draft, I have added an extra 1/4 inch.

The outer purple line is where we will fold the button placket facing. 

2. The gathered skirt

Pattern draft:

A-B = full length of the dress minus the bodice length

A-C = bust round/2

C-D = A-B

B-D = A-C

D-E = 3/4 inch for kids and 1 inch for ladies

Connect E to B with a curved line.

C-F = 1 inch

Connect F and E with a straight line.

Add seam and hem allowances to the pattern:

I have added 3/8 inch to the waist, 3/4 inch to the sides, and 1 1/4 inch to the hemline.

3. The in-seam pockets

First, locate the best spot at the side seam of the skirt where you want to place the pocket. This can be 1.75 inch to 3 inch down from the waist seam. Mark this location with a small line. This is the start of the pocket's top edge.

Then, trace around the hand of the person for whom you are making the dress, with their fingers slightly stretched out. You can also trace a glove that matches their hand's size. 

Place the traced hand pattern on the skirt's side seam where you have marked for the pocket placement already.

Draw the pocket shape around this traced hand pattern.

Mark the end of the pocket's lower edge on the skirt's seam allowance. 

Add 1/4 inch seam allowance all around the pocket pattern. After adding the seam allowances, mark the top and lower edge of the pocket on the side seam of the skirt pattern template with small lines (notches). See the red lines in the image below.

Trace the pocket pattern out. You will have to cut two pocket pieces from the main fabric for the right side and then flip and cut another two for the left side. 

4. The cap sleeves

To know how to draft a cap sleeve pattern check this page.

If you want to have long sleeves instead of cap sleeves, please check this link for the pattern drafting tutorial.

These are the pattern pieces needed to make this dress. Seam allowances are shown with dashed lines.

I will soon post the free PDF sewing pattern and sewing tutorial of this dress. 

I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page link at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Happy Sewing!

---Flora

How to Draft a Self-Faced Cap Sleeve Pattern?

Today, we will see how to draft a self-faced cap sleeve.

A cap sleeve is a short sleeve style that covers only the shoulder and a small part of the upper arm, providing minimal coverage. It typically creates a feminine silhouette and is often seen in tops and dresses.

We will draft the cap sleeve using the basic sleeve pattern. 

I have posted a detailed tutorial on how to draft a basic long sleeve pattern here.

We need to make small changes to the cap part of the sleeve to get the cap sleeve pattern.

The cap sleeve we are going to draft is not joined at the side seams. It ends halfway on the armhole.

You will need these measurements to draft the sleeve:

1. The length you prefer for the cap sleeve (Usually lesser than the cap height.)

Pattern Draft:

ACB is the biceps line in the basic sleeve draft.

C is the midpoint of AB.

Mark D 1 to 1.5 inches from C.

Draw a the line FDE parallel to the biceps line ACB.

You can also mark D from the center notch of the sleeve F such that FD is the length of the sleeve you prefer.

Now, we will cut out the FDEG part from this draft, and this is going to be our cap sleeve pattern.

This pattern is cut from a folded fabric like this:

The fold at the bottom is the hemline of the sleeve. The upper curve is the sleeve cap that is to be joined to the bodice armhole. When we open the folded fabric it will be like this:

The cap sleeve pattern below the fold will be used for facing. Thus we have a self-faced cap sleeve.

Please check the dress with gathered skirt and inseam pocket tutorial where I have shown how to use the basic bodice block draft discussed earlier and the cap sleeve pattern draft discussed in this post.

I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Happy sewing

---Flora

  

How to Draft the Pattern for Long Sleeves (Full Sleeves)?

Today we will see how to draft the pattern for long sleeves.

A long sleeve extends fully from the shoulder down to the wrist, providing complete arm coverage. Long sleeves can come in various styles, such as fitted, loose, or flared, and may feature design elements like cuffs, buttons, or ribbing at the wrist. This sleeve type is common in cooler weather attire, as it offers warmth and protection, and is widely used in shirts, blouses, dresses, and outerwear. Long sleeves create a balanced and elongated look and can be styled for both casual and formal outfits.

I have already posted tutorials on how to draft a basic sleeve pattern.

This is the simplified version of the sleeve pattern draft.

These are the measurements you need:

1. Biceps circumference (Measure around the widest part of your arm. Keeping the tape parallel to the floor, measure around your biceps, just under the armpit.)

2. Cap height (Measure from the shoulder edge to where you measured the biceps circumference.)

3. Length of the sleeve (The sleeve length you prefer. For a long sleeve, it's from the shoulder edge to the wrist.) 

Pattern Draft:

A-B = Biceps circumference + 0.25 inch ease for the sleeve front + 0.25 inch ease for the sleeve back

Square down from A and B.

A-C = B-D = Sleeve length

E is the center point of A-B. 

Square down from E. Mark F where the line from E meets C-D.

A-G = B-H = Cap height (This is generally 1/8 bust round minus 0.5 inch.)

Sleeve front curve:

Join H and E.

I is the midpoint of H-E. 

Shape the front armhole H-I-E as shown in the figure.

Sleeve back curve:

Join G and E.

J is the midpoint of G-E.

O is the midpoint of G-N.

Mark K 0.5 inch from J.

Shape the back armhole GKE as shown in the figure.

Sleeve hemline:

Long sleeve ends at the wrist.

F-L = F-M = Half the wrist measurement + 1/2 inch ease 

Join G and L, and join H and M.   

Our sleeve pattern is ready now.

Once you have drafted your sleeve pattern, measure the sleeve cap curve using a measuring tape, and note it down. Then measure the front bodice armhole curve and the back bodice armhole curve, add them both, and note down this measurement as well. You will notice that the sleeve cap measurement will be slightly higher than the armhole measurement. This is okay. This extra volume of fabric is called sleeve cap ease. When we attach the sleeve to the armhole, we need to ease out this extra volume of fabric. This is called setting in the sleeve. A set-in sleeve gives a nicer look to the garment and helps with the comfortable movement of your arm. You can see how to set in a sleeve in my empire waist dress sewing tutorial. 

Add seam and hem allowances:

Let's add seam and hem allowances to our sleeve pattern.

3/8 inch around the cap sleeve.

3/4 inch at the sides.

1/2 inch at the hemline.

I will see you all with yet another pattern drafting or sewing tutorial.

Please check the dress with gathered skirt and inseam pocket tutorial where I have shown how to use the basic bodice block draft discussed earlier, the cap sleeve pattern draft discussed here, and the long sleeve pattern draft discussed in this post.

Have a browse through the free PDF printable sewing patterns and sewing and pattern drafting tutorials posted on these pages of my blog:

Free Printable PDF Sewing patterns

Sewing Tutorials

Pattern Drafting Tutorials

Happy Sewing!

---Flora

How to Draft Kids' Basic Bodice Pattern?

Today we will see how to draft the basic bodice pattern for kids. 

You need to take the following measurements to draft the bodice:

Vertical measurements:

1. Length of the bodice

2. Armhole depth (armscye depth)

3. Front neck depth

4. Back neck depth

Horizontal measurements:

1. Bust round

2. Waist round

3. Across shoulder measurement (from shoulder point to shoulder point)

4. Neck width

Pattern draft:

First, we will mark all the vertical measurements.

A-B = Bodice length (from the shoulder point at neck to the waistline.)

A-C = Armhole depth

A-D = Front neck depth

A-E = Back neck depth

Now, let's mark all the horizontal measurements.

A-F = Across shoulder measurement/2

F-G = Shoulder width you prefer to have for the bodice 

(or)

A-G = Neck width/2 + 0.25 inch to 0.50 inch (or) bust round/12 + 0.25 inch to 0.50 inch

C-H defines the armhole depth line. Bust line is around 1 to 1.5 inches below the armhole depth line.

C-H = Bust round/4 + 0.75 inch (0.75 inch is the ease here. You can increase or decrease the ease according to the type of fabric you are going to use and the fit you prefer.) 

B to I = Waist round/4 + 0.625 inch (0.625 inch is the ease here. You can increase or decrease the ease according to the type of fabric you are going to use and the fit you prefer.

F-J = 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Join GJ to create the shoulder slope.

Let's draft the armhole.

Square down a line from F. Mark a point K where this line meets C-H.

Measure the length of J to K. L is half of J-K. Mark M 0.5 inch from L.

Join JMH to create the front armhole curve.

Join JLH to create the back armhole curve.

Let's draft the neckline.

Square down a line from G. Draw a horizontal line from D such that it crosses the vertical line from G. Using these lines as guides, draw the front neckline curve.

Then, draw a horizontal line from E such that it crosses the vertical line from G. Using these lines as guides, draw the back neckline curve.

B to N is 0.5 inch. Join I-N. (This is only for the front bodice.)

That's it! We have drafted the kids' basic front and back bodice patterns. Once you have traced the pattern pieces from the draft, they will look like this:

Now, let's add seam allowances to it.

The seam allowances I have used are:

3/8 inch for the neckline, shoulders, armholes, and for the bottom seams (where we will attach the skirt) and 3/4 inch for the side seams.

You can use this basic bodice draft to design dresses, jumpsuits, etc.

I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Happy sewing

---Flora

  

 

How to Draft a Mandarin Collar Pattern?

What is a Mandarin collar?

Mandarin collar (also known as stand collar) is a close-fitting collar that stands upward from the neckline. The opening for this collar is usually kept at the front.

Measurements needed to draft the collar:

1. Total neckline measurement

2. Neckline measurement from center back to shoulder point at the neck

3. Neckline measurement from center front to shoulder point at the neck

How to draft the Mandarin collar?

A to B = Half of the total neckline measurement

A to C = 1.5 inches (height of the collar, i.e., collar width. This can be increased or decreased as per your preference. But 1.5 inches [3.81 cm] is the standard width.)

B to D is same as A to C.

D to C is same as A to B.

A to E is the neckline measurement from center back to shoulder point at the neck.

Square up 0.50 inch (1.27 cm) from B. Mark and label F. 

Draw a curved line from F to E.

Now AEF is the base of the collar (that is, the neckline edge of the collar).

Mark G such that DG = 0.25 inch (0.635 cm).

Square 1.5 inches from F that passes through G. 

F to G = A to C = 1.5 inches

Draw a line from H to C, parallel to AEF. 

HC is the top edge of the collar. 

This is the pattern piece:

This is how the collar is cut from a folded fabric. The fold is on the center back line.

This is how the collar looks after it is cut from the fabric. Cut two collar pieces from the main fabric and one collar piece from fusible interfacing. Fusible interfacing is added for stability.

Add 0.375 (3/8) inch (1 cm) seam allowance all around the collar pattern.

We can also change the collar to have a curved corner as below.

Click here to see the step-by-step tutorial on how to attach the Mandarin collar to the neckline of a dress.

Happy Sewing!

---Flora

Full Circle Skirt Free PDF Printable Sewing Pattern for 18-Inch Dolls

Here's another PDF printable sewing pattern for 18-inch dolls---Full circle skirt with elasticated waist band.

The measurements of the doll I used are

Chest 11.5 inches

Waist 11 inches

Hip 11.75 inches

This pattern will fit 18-inch dolls such as the American Girl® Doll and Our Generation® Doll and dolls with similar body measurements.

Seam allowances:

Seam allowances are included in the pattern, which is, for the skirt, 0.25 inch at the top edge and 0.50 inch at the hemline.

How to print?

This is a two-page PDF file. 

Print the page on an A4 paper. Make sure you have set page sizing to "Actual size" before you print the pattern. 

You can measure the 1 inch x 1 inch square in the pattern page to check whether the page has printed correctly.

Pattern Link:

Note: I recently found out that I had uploaded a wrong PDF file. I have removed the file and uploaded the new file. Please click the link below to download the new correct file. I apologize for the inconvenience.

How to Print and Assemble the PDF Pattern Pages:

Click here to learn how to print and assemble the PDF pattern pages. 

Waistband:

For the waistband, cut a 20-inch-long, 2-inch-wide piece of fabric.

How to Cut the Pattern Pieces from the Fabric?

This is how you will cut the skirt and waist band from the fabric. 

Suggested fabrics and fabric measurements:

An 18 x 18-inch (45 x 45-cm) fabric is needed to make this circle skirt. This is how the circle skirt will look like after it's cut out from the fabric---like a donut. :-)

You can use fabrics such as quilting cotton, gingham, linen, seersucker, crepe, silk, etc. to make this skirt. 

How to Sew?

I have given below a short tutorial on how to sew the skirt.

A step-by-step sewing tutorial with pictures is provided here. 

Step 1: Hem the skirt. Fold the hemline down the wrong side by 0.25 inch and then again by 0.25 inch and sew along the folded edge.  

Step 2: With right sides facing, attach the bottom edge of the waistband with the skirt's top edge at the center back using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Start by leaving a trail of 1 or 2 inches of the waistband at one end and sew around the skirt. And once you are back at the starting point, match both the ends and pin them together. Cut the trail of fabric from both  ends of the waistband leaving only 1/4 inch for seam allowance, and now join the ends together.

Step 3: Fold down the top edge of the waist band by 1/4 inch. Next, fold the waistband in half, and sew over the folded edge leaving a small gap to feed the elastic in. Insert a 0.5-inch-wide, 10-inch-long elastic through the casing, overlap the ends of the elastic by 0.5 inch, and sew them together. Sew the gap in the casing closed.

Now your doll has got a beautiful twirly circle skirt to add to her wardrobe.

I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

Pattern drafting tutorials

Sewing tutorials

These links appear at the top of my blog on the navigation bar as well.

Happy sewing!  

---Flora