How to Draft the Pattern for a Basic Dress with Gathered Skirt, In-Seam Pockets, and Cap Sleeves

I was planning to make a dress for my younger daughter. These are the sketches I did for the dress, with two sleeve variations: a cap sleeve and a long sleeve.

My daughter chose the first option with cap sleeves. She selected a vintage-style mint green floral fabric for the dress's skirt and a solid white fabric for the bodice and sleeves. 

This is the look we preferred.

While drafting the pattern I thought I must share the pattern drafting tutorial here on my blog. So today, let's learn how to draft a basic dress that has a gathered skirt with hidden in-seam pockets and cap sleeves.  

We will break down the tutorial into four steps:

1. The basic bodice

2. The gathered skirt 

3. The in-seam pockets and

4. The cap sleeves

We will need the following measurements to draft the pattern for this dress:

1. Full length of the dress (from the highest point of the shoulder to the knee)

2. Bodice length (from the highest point of the shoulder to the waist)

3. Across shoulder measurement (from shoulder point to shoulder point)

4. Armhole depth

5. Bust round

6. Waist round

7. Front neck depth

8. Back neck depth

9. Neck width

10. Biceps round

11. Sleeve cap length 

12. Length of the cap sleeve (Usually lesser than the cap height)

1. The basic bodice

I have posted a detailed tutorial on how to draft kids' basic bodice on this page. Please check.

I have made some changes to the back bodice draft.

I wanted to add buttons and buttonholes at the center back.

For this we need to extend the center back to accommodate for the button and buttonhole overlaps. We need to first determine the width of the button (diameter of the button) that we are going to sew on the center back line. (The red line in the picture below is the center back line.) I am planning to use 1/2-inch-wide buttons. So my button stand will extend 1/2 inch from the center back line. (Generally, a button stand is extended 3/4 inch from the center line. This is the standard width used in the garment industry. 

Here, the diameter of the button I want to use is 1/2 inch. Therefore I have extended the button stand 1/2 inch from the center back line. If we want to use a button with an 1 inch diameter, then we should extend the button stand 1 inch from the center line.)

I wanted to draft a self-faced button stand. Therefore, we will add another 1 inch to the width of the button stand. The green line indicates the added width that needs to be folded inside. We can either serge along the green line to conceal the raw edge, or we can add an extra 1/4 inch to fold and hide the raw edge. Here in this draft, I have added an extra 1/4 inch.

The outer purple line is where we will fold the button placket facing. 

2. The gathered skirt

Pattern draft:

A-B = full length of the dress minus the bodice length

A-C = bust round/2

C-D = A-B

B-D = A-C

D-E = 3/4 inch for kids and 1 inch for ladies

Connect E to B with a curved line.

C-F = 1 inch

Connect F and E with a straight line.

Add seam and hem allowances to the pattern:

I have added 3/8 inch to the waist, 3/4 inch to the sides, and 1 1/4 inch to the hemline.

3. The in-seam pockets

First, locate the best spot at the side seam of the skirt where you want to place the pocket. This can be 1.75 inch to 3 inch down from the waist seam. Mark this location with a small line. This is the start of the pocket's top edge.

Then, trace around the hand of the person for whom you are making the dress, with their fingers slightly stretched out. You can also trace a glove that matches their hand's size. 

Place the traced hand pattern on the skirt's side seam where you have marked for the pocket placement already.

Draw the pocket shape around this traced hand pattern.

Mark the end of the pocket's lower edge on the skirt's seam allowance. 

Add 1/4 inch seam allowance all around the pocket pattern. After adding the seam allowances, mark the top and lower edge of the pocket on the side seam of the skirt pattern template with small lines (notches). See the red lines in the image below.

Trace the pocket pattern out. You will have to cut two pocket pieces from the main fabric for the right side and then flip and cut another two for the left side. 

4. The cap sleeves

To know how to draft a cap sleeve pattern check this page.

If you want to have long sleeves instead of cap sleeves, please check this link for the pattern drafting tutorial.

These are the pattern pieces needed to make this dress. Seam allowances are shown with dashed lines.

I will soon post the free PDF sewing pattern and sewing tutorial of this dress. 

I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page link at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Happy Sewing!

---Flora