Today we will see how to draft the pattern for long sleeves.
I have already posted tutorials on how to draft a basic sleeve pattern.
This is the simplified version of the sleeve pattern draft.
These are the measurements you need:
1. Biceps circumference (Measure around the widest part of your arm. Keeping the tape parallel to the floor, measure around your biceps, just under the armpit.)
2. Cap height (Measure from the shoulder point to where you measured the biceps circumference.)
3. Length of the sleeve (The sleeve length you prefer. Usually, from the shoulder point to the wrist.)
Pattern Draft:
A-B = Biceps circumference + 0.25 inch ease for the sleeve front + 0.25 inch ease for the sleeve back
Square down from A and B.
A-C = B-D = Sleeve length
E is the center point of A-B.
Square down from F. Mark F where the line meets C-D.
A-G = B-H = Cap height (This is generally 1/8 bust round minus 0.5 inch.)
Sleeve front curve:
Join H and E .
I is the midpoint of H-E.
Shape the front armhole H-I-E as shown in the figure.
Sleeve back curve:
Join G and E.
J is the midpoint of G-E.
O is the midpoint of G-N.
Mark K 0.5 inch from J.
Shape the back armhole GKE as shown in the figure.
Sleeve hemline:
Long sleeve ends at the wrist.
C-L = D-M = 1 inch
Join G and L.
And join H and M.
Our sleeve pattern is ready now.
Once you have drafted your sleeve pattern, measure the sleeve cap curve using a measuring tape, and note it down. Then measure the front bodice armhole curve and the back bodice armhole curve, add them both, and note down this measurement as well. You will notice that the sleeve cap measurement will be slightly higher than the armhole measurement. This is okay. This extra volume of fabric is called sleeve cap ease. When we attach the sleeve to the armhole, we need to ease out this extra volume of fabric. This is called setting in the sleeve. A set-in sleeve gives a nicer look to the garment and helps with the comfortable movement of your arm. You can see how to set in a sleeve in my empire waist dress sewing tutorial.
Add seam and hem allowances:
Let's add seam and hem allowances to our sleeve pattern.
3/8 inch around the cap sleeve.
3/4 inch at the sides.
1/2 inch at the hemline.
I will see you all with yet another pattern drafting or sewing tutorial.
Please check the dress with gathered skirt and inseam pocket tutorial where I have shown how to use the basic bodice block draft discussed earlier, the cap sleeve pattern draft discussed here, and the long sleeve pattern draft discussed in this post.
Have a browse through the free PDF printable sewing patterns and sewing and pattern drafting tutorials posted on these pages of my blog:
Free Printable PDF Sewing patterns
Happy Sewing!
---Flora
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