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Thursday, July 4, 2013

How to Draft a Kameez (Kurta)?




Image Source: www.kurtapajamadesigns2013.blogspot.in

A kameez (also called kurta) is a long tunic worn usually with a salwar (also called pajama pants) and a dupatta (also called stole or shawl or scarf). The pattern draft provided here is for a simple dartless, medium-fit kameez as in the photo above.




Measurements needed:

1. Kameez length
2. Bust round
3. Waist round
4. Hip round
5. Waist length
6. Hip length
7. Shoulder (shoulder tip to shoulder tip)
8. Neck depth
9. Shoulder width (Take this measurement from shoulder tip toward the neck. This may vary according to how close or broad you want your neck to be. Mine is 2.5 inches)
10. Sleeve length
11. Sleeve hemline circumference

I have posted a free kameez (kurta) sewing pattern for women in sizes XS to XXL HERE. I have provided the download link and other details in that post. You just have to download the A4 pattern pieces for your size, assemble them, trace or cut out your size, and use it to make your kurta. It's a semi-fitted straight kurta with short sleeves. Hope you may find it helpful.

Also, check the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.


If you would like to draft your own kameez for your body measurements, please follow this tutorial:


A to B = Kameez length
A to C = Front neck depth
A to E = Shoulder (shoulder tip to shoulder tip) divided by 2
Draw a vertical line from E and mark point I where this line meets GH.
E to F = 0.75 inch

F to D = Kameez shoulder width
A to G = 1/8 chest + 2.5 inches or scye depth
G to H = 1/4 chest + 1 inch ease

Mark L 1 inch from I.
J is midpoint of FL.
Mark K 0.5 inch from J.
Join HLKF to create the front arm curve.
A to M = Waist length
M to N = 1/4 waist + 0.5 inch ease
A to O = Hip length
O to P = 1/4 hip + 0.75 inch ease
B to Q = 1/4 hip + 1.5 inches
Shape side HNPQ.




A to B = Kameez length
A to C = Front neck depth
A to E = Shoulder (shoulder tip to shoulder tip) divided by 2
A to G = 1/8 chest + 2.5 inches or scye depth
G to H = 1/4 chest + 1 inch ease
Draw a vertical line from E.E to F = 0.75 inch
F to D = Kameez shoulder width (This should be equal to that of kameez front)
A to I = Waist length
I to J = 1/4 waist + 0.5 inch ease
A to K = Hip length
K to L = 1/4 hip + 0.75 inch ease
B to M = 1/4 hip + 1.5 inches
Shape side HJLM.

Seam allowances for front and back of the kameez:
0.5 inch on the sides
1.5 inch for hem
0.375 inch on the armhole, neckline, and shoulders





Sleeve:

 
A to B = B to C = 1/8  chest + 2.5 inches
B to E = Sleeve length = A to D = C to F
D to E = A to B
E to F = B to C
A to G = C to H = 1/8 chest
B to I = B to J = 1 inch
Join HJ and GI.
K is midpoint of HJ.
K to L = 0.5 inch
Shape front armhole HLJB.
M is midpoint of GI.
M to N = 0.5 inch
O is midpoint of GM.
P is midpoint of MI.
P to Q = 0.625 inch
Shape back armhole GONQIB.
E to R = E to S = half sleeve round + 0.5 inch ease
Join GR and HS

Seam allowances:
0.5 inch on the sides
1.5 inch for hem
0.375 inch around the sleeve cap.

You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog.


Click the below links to have a browse through the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.









5 comments:

Unknown said...

what is G and H in the sleeve?

Flora said...

Hi Waheeda,

I have made some changes to the sleeve draft. Hope it is clear to you now.

Unknown said...

thanks

Vasu said...

Is Left end of sleeve for Salwar front and right end for Salwar back ?

Flora said...

Hi Vasu,

HLJB is front of the sleeve, and GONQIB is the back of the sleeve. Hope it is clear now.

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