Jumper (Pinafore) Dress Pattern Draft

Earlier, I had posted a tutorial on how to sew a jumper (pinafore) dress, but I didn't have the pattern draft ready at that time. I drafted the pattern today, and I will show you how to do it.

Measurements needed for this dress are:

1. Length of the dress---from the highest point of the shoulder (close to the neck) down to where you want to have the hemline)
2. Shoulder (length between two shoulder points--from shoulder tip to shoulder tip)
3. Bust
4. Neck depth

There are 4 pattern pieces in this pattern:

1. Straps
2. Yoke or chest piece
3. Body
4. Ruffles (optional)




Let's draft the pattern: A-B = length of the dress
A-D = Shoulder/2 minus 1/2"
D-C = 1.5"
A-E = neck depth
Square out from E.
E-F = A-D
A-H =  1/4 bust
H-I = 1/4 bust + 3/4 inch ease
Draw a curved line from I to F to shape the armhole.
O-I = H-N = 1 inch
Join N-O.
B-J = 1/4 chest + 2"
Join I and J.

This is your basic pinafore pattern.

If you want to add ruffles at the bottom (I wanted to add it) in a contrast fabric, you should subtract the width of the ruffle from the length of the dress (I kept the ruffle width 5 inches for the dress I made).

In the pattern, B to K marks the ruffle width. Square out from K and mark L where the line meets I-J.
L-M = 3/4 inch. Draw a curved line from M to shape the hemline of the body of the dress.

Now we are going to separate the pattern pieces and add seam allowances.

Discard the ruffle piece from the pattern draft above and create a new one with the same width, but length twice as that of BJ.

Add 0.25 inch seam allowances on all the sides except for the sides and for the hem of the ruffle piece for which it should be 0.5 inch.

(Note: Measure CGE and multiply it by 4. Let us call this the neckline measurement. Now measure your kid's head circumference. Compare this with the neckline measurement. If the neckline measurement is less than the head circumference, then you can either reduce the width of the straps, or you can make a slit at the center back and sew button flaps. You can also sew buttonholes on the front end of the straps and sew buttons onto the front yoke piece.)

I have already posted the sewing tutorial here. But I felt there are fewer photos in that tutorial which might make it hard to understand. Therefore, I will post a new tutorial as early as possible. This will be a little different from the previous one I shared.

You can find the detailed how-to-sew tutorial here.

I have posted a free PDF  printable sewing pattern of this dress in kids' size 1 year at this link. Please check.

You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. You can download and use them to create your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials  

Silk Skirt and Blouse---Made by My Mom

This is a pair of silk skirt and blouse my mom made for my daughter 5 months ago. My mom had this idea of using prairie points at the hemline of the blouse. I helped her a little in making these. We liked how it turned out.

My little daughter wore this on her birthday. She was very much excited to wear her skirt and blouse (the main reasons being the skirt twirled a lot and had more room for her to move around easily) that she was hesitating to change it off and wear her night dress. She was repeatedly asking her grandmother "You made this specially for me?" My mom was so happy. 

"Thank you Mom, for this beautiful gift."

You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Spring--Summer Dress 3

I made this simple dress as an addition to my daughter's spring--summer wardrobe.

Front:

Back:

A-line Dress with Bib Inset

This is the second spring-summer outfit I made for my daughter---an A-line dress with a bib inset.

The fabric is cotton. I used ricrac lace around the bib inset.

The flowers are store-bought premade flowers.\

You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Tutorial: How to Refashion a Woman's Tunic into a Girl's Jumper Dress

Hi Friends,

Belated New Year wishes to all of you!

Nice to you meet you all after a long time with yet another blog post.

Recently, I made a few dresses for my 3-year-old daughter, which can be worn during spring and summer.

The first one is a jumper dress refashioned from an embroidered tunic.

This...

turned into this....

I used the plain blue part of the tunic for the straps and main fabric of the tunic, and the embroidered fabric for the yoke and ruffles. I attached two satin ribbon flowers (self-made) at the center front as I thought the pinafore looked a plain and boring.






This is how I did it:

1. Rip out the seams at shoulder, sides, and sleeves, and separate the front, back, and the sleeves (rip out the hems too) and iron them well.

2. Place the pattern templates on these pieces as shown in the below pictures.

3. Cut the pattern pieces for the pinafore. 

4. Make the straps. Take two strap pieces. With right sides together, sew together the long edges. Turn the strap inside out. Now bring the seam line on one edge to the center and press the strap (so that the seam line is hidden under). Repeat it for the other strap. (Sorry, I didn't take pictures of this step.)

5. Join the yoke and main fabric together.

(Again, sorry, I forgot to take pictures of the steps below)

6. With right sides of the yoke and yoke lining pieces together, sandwich the straps.
7. Join the sides.
8. Attach the ruffles at the bottom round of the pinafore. Add fabric flowers or other embellishments if you like.

Done!

I have posted a free PDF  printable sewing pattern of this dress in kids' size 1 year at this link. Please check.

Click this page on my blog to see lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns. You can download and use them to create your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

A-Line Floral Skirt with Frills

I made this skirt yesterday using a simple A-line skirt draft. I attached the red satin ribbon and frill trim to add grace to the floral skirt. The frill trim is a store-bought one. So it made my work easier.

Does the skirt look good with the frill trim or should it have been better left plain? Please post your replies. I am eager to read your comments and feedback.

You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. You can download and use them to create your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials  

A Ruched Sundress for My Little Girl

I made this empire-waist sundress for my little girl today. The pattern is self-drafted. I did some ruching at the center front. The straps cross at the back. First, I thought of attaching a red or orange satin ribbon at the empire line, but then I settled in with the lace trim to give a soft look to the dress.

Here are some action shots. I took these photos before attaching the lace trim on the bottom hemline of the dress.

I purchased some cotton fabrics from a fabric bazaar recently to make summer dresses or skirts for my daughter. As I already have loads of cotton fabrics, I purchased only a few. I made the above-mentioned sundress from one of the fabrics you see in the image below. The lavender-colored floral fabric is for my friend's daughter. This type of cotton fabric is so soft and perfect for summer.

Lots of sewing ahead! I would love to see what you are making now. Please feel free to comment and leave a link to your blog, so that I will be able to visit your blogs too.

I have linked this to the link party on Happy Hour Projects.

You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. You can download and use them to create your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Tutorial---How to Draft and Sew a Peasant Blouse

The peasant blouse or peasant top is very easy to draft and sew. The pattern draft is based on the basic blouse pattern. A raglan style sleeve (a sleeve that begins at the neckline and has a diagonal (sloping) seam line that ends at the armhole) is used in this top.

Body measurements needed:

Length of the blouse

Bust circumference

Shoulder measurement (from one shoulder edge point to the other shoulder edge point)

Neck depth

Pattern draft:

Front:

A to B = Blouse length
A to C = Neck depth
A to D = 1/8 bust + 2.5 inches (or 1/4 bust - 1 or scye depth, i.e., armhole depth)

D to E = 1/4 bust + 0.75-inch ease (ease can be reduced when you use stretchy fabrics to sew this top)

B to F is same as D to E or plus 2 inches (4 inches for women's size) if you want flare at the hemline
A to I = Half of the shoulder measurement
H to I = 1 inch (reduce this to 0.50 inch to 0.75 inch for kids' sizes)
H to G = Blouse's shoulder width you prefer

(or A to G = bust/12 + 0.25 inch or the measurement from the center of the neck to where you want your blouse's neckline to sit on the shoulder at neck.) 

HE is the armhole curve, which is not required here.

Shape the front neckline GC.

Connect A and E. Mark point N where the line AE meets the neckline.

Draw a vertical line from I which meets the line DE at point J.
Mark point K 1 inch from J (for women's blouses) (this could be 1/2 inch for kids under 8 years and 3/4 inch for kids 9 to 12 years). Shape EKN.

C to L = B to M = 2 inches (for more fullness, you can increase this measure as per your preference.)


LM is where you keep the fold in the fabric when you cut the front piece.



Back:

Same as front except for this change: Mark point K 1.5 inch from J (for women's blouses) (this could be 3/4 inch for kids under 8 years and 1 inch for kids 9 to 12 years). Shape EKN.

LM is where you keep the fold in the fabric when you cut the back piece.






Sleeve:

A to B = 1/8 bust + 2.5 inches (or 1/4 bust - 1 or scye depth, i.e., armhole depth)
A to C = Neck depth
A to O = Half of the shoulder measurement
A to D = A to G in the front blouse draft
B to F = 1/4 bust + 0.75-inch ease (the same ease you kept for the blouse front) 
Draw a vertical line from O which meets BF at point P.
Connect A and F. Mark point Q where the line AF meets the neckline.
Mark point G where lines OP and AF cross.
G to I = 1 inch (this could be 1/2 inch for kids under 8 years and 3/4 inch for kids 9 to 12 years)
G to H = 1.5 inch (this could be 3/4 inch for kids under 8 years and 1 inch for kids 9 to 12 years)

Shape sleeve front armhole FHQ and back armhole FIQ.
D to L = Length of the sleeve from D plus 2 to 3 inches for fullness at the arm round of the puffed sleeve.

AL = BE

Connect L and E.

K to L = D to J = 2 inches for the fullness at the armhole of the puffed sleeve.
Join K and J.
L to N = Half sleeve round
Join F and N.
N to M = 0.75 inch
Join L and M with a curved line.

JK is where you keep the fold in the fabric when you cut the sleeve pieces.


Cut the front, back, and sleeve pattern pieces on fold.


Add seam and hem allowances:

For blouse front and back:

3/8 inch at the armhole.
3/4 inch for the neckline for creating casing for the elastic
1/2 inch or 1 inch on the sides.
3/4 inch at the blouse bottom hemline

For sleeves:

3/8 inch at the sleeve cap curve.
1/2 inch or 1 inch on the sides.

3/4 inch at the sleeve hemline.

3/4 inch for the neckline for creating casing for the elastic (The sleeves start from the neckline, so they make part of the neckline.)

I have posted a free PDF sewing pattern for kids' peasant blouse for sizes 1 year to 12 years at the link below:

Click this link for the free PDF sewing pattern for Kids' peasant blouse for sizes 1 year to 12 years.

How to Sew?

Step 1: Lay out the front, back, and sleeve pattern pieces.

Step 2: Attach the sleeves with the front and back bodices:

With right sides facing, attach the sleeves to the front and back bodices.


Step 3: Join the sides.

Step 4. Make casing at the hemline of the sleeves and at the neck and insert the elastic into the casing.

How to do this: Fold the allowance of one of the sleeves down the wrong side, first by 1/4 inch and then again by 1/2 inch, and sew, leaving a 2-inch gap to insert the elastic. Using a safety pin, insert a 1/4-inch-wide elastic into the casing through the gap.

The length of the elastic should be equal to the sleeve round at the hemline. I have marked the length needed (can you see the blue mark on the elastic in the photo below).

Pin a safety pin at one end of the elastic. Feed the elastic through the entire casing, while holding the safety pin tightly while moving it through the casing.

When you get to the other end, take off the safety pin and overlap the two ends of the elastic by 1/2 an inch. Sew two or three rows of stitches to hold the elastic ends in place. Then snip off the excess elastic and close the opening in the casing by folding under and then hemming. Repeat this for the other sleeve as well as the neck. 

For the neckline, measure NC on the blouse's front draft and DQ on the blouse's sleeve draft. This is one fourth of the neckline. Four times this measurement gives you the neckline circumference. Take a 1/4-inch-wide elastic with length equal to the neckline circumference you calculated now. 

Now, create a casing in the neckline by folding the neckline down the wrong side by 1/4 inch, then again by 1/2 inch. Sew along the folded edge, leaving a gap of 2 inches to place the elastic in. 

Now, insert the elastic as you did for the sleeve hemline.

Step 5. Sew the side seams.

Step 6. Hem the bottom of the blouse.

Fold down the hemline to the wrong side by 1/4 first, and again by 1/2 inch and sew along the folded edge. Attach laces or satin ribbons along the hemline and decorate the neckline with bows made of satin ribbon (if you prefer).

That's it! Done. Easy, ain't it? Please leave your comments and questions in the comments section under this post. I will be happy to answer.

Click here for the free PDF sewing pattern for Kids' peasant blouse for sizes 1 year to 12 years.

You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. You can download and use them to create your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

I Am Back

Hi Friends! I am back after a long vacation. I will soon post a tutorial on how to draft and sew a peasant blouse.

Watch out for the tutorial.

You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. You can download and use them to create your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials  

Tutorial---How to Sew and Attach a Stand Collar (Mandarin Collar)

While making the stand collar for this dress (which I had mentioned in this post), I thought I could share a short tutorial on how to sew and attach a stand collar. This method is very easy and you can make the collar in a jiffy.

Here is the tutorial:

Cut out two collar pieces (one for the outer collar and one for the inner collar [or facing]) using the stand collar (Mandarin collar) pattern draft posted here. The stand collar I have made here has curved edges and opens at the center front. 

You need one more collar piece cut from fusible interfacing. You can iron this on the wrong side of either the outer fabric or facing fabric. This is optional. However, using fusible interfacing will give more firmness to the collar. I didn't use fusible interfacing for this dress. But it looked fine without using it.

 

Fold the collar pieces by 0.25 inch at the bottom on the wrong side.

With right sides facing, sew the collar pieces together with a 0.25 seam. I have indicated the seam line in red in the photo below.

Clip the curved edges of the collar and turn the collar inside out. Now, sandwich the neckline of the dress between the two collar pieces starting from the curved corners of the neckline on the front bodice.

Pin the collar to the entire neckline.

Whip stitch or hem stitch the base of the collar by hand, making sure with each stitch you catch the base of the outer collar and inner collar (or facing) and the sandwiched neckline with your needle.

 

Your collar is almost ready now.

Top stitch the base of the collar, and that's it! Your stand collar is done.

Forgive me for the woobly stitches. Perhaps my sewing machine was in a bad mood that day :-)

I have linked this tutorial to the Link Party at Shwin&Shwin.

You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. You can download and use them to create your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials