How to Sew Bermuda Shorts?---Sewing Tutorial

In today's sewing tutorial, let's learn how to sew a pair of Bermuda shorts.

First, cut out the pattern pieces using the Free Bermuda shorts PDF printable sewing pattern for kids' sizes 6 to 12 years given here or kids' sizes 1 to 5 years given here or using the pattern drafting tutorial for Bermuda shorts given here.

We have two front pieces and two back pieces to make the shorts.

Now let's make the shorts. 

We can quickly make these shorts in five simple steps.

1. Join the sides.

With the right sides of the front and back fabric pieces facing together, join the sides of the shorts.

2. Sew the center seam (crotch seam).

With right sides facing each other, join the front pieces together at the center seam or crotch seam. Stop at the bottom of the crotch seam and leave the leg part open. (I have shown the seam lines with dotted lines in the picture below. Join these seam lines together and you will get the crotch line at the center front.) Repeat this step for the back pieces as well.

3. Sew the leg seam (inseam).

Join the leg seam (where the black arrow points to in the image).

4. Finish the hemline of the shorts.

Fold the leg hemline half inch inward and press. 

Then fold again 1 inch inward and press. Sew along the lower edge of the fold. Repeat the same steps  for the other leg.

It should look like this. 

5. Finish the elastic waist.

Fold the waistline half inch to the wrong side and press.

Then fold again 1 inch and press. Sew along the lower edge of the fold to create the casing for the elastic.

The waistline fold should look like this:

While making the casing, insert a piece of ribbon or a tag at the center back as it will help identify the back of the shorts. 

Leave a gap of 2 inches in the casing at the front waistline to insert the elastic.

Take an 0.75-inch-wide elastic with its length equal to the waist round of the body measurement minus 1 inch.

Feed the elastic through the casing you just created. 

Match up the ends of the elastic, overlap the ends by about 0.25 inches, and sew them together using two or three rows of stitches or a zigzag stitch.

Let's sew the gap closed in the waistline fold. And we are done!

A new pair of Bermuda shorts is ready now. You can easily make this!

I have posted the another detailed shorts sewing tutorial for an 18-inch doll at this link. I hope it will also be helpful to you.

Front:

Back:

See you all again with the summer top sewing tutorial.

I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Happy sewing!

---Flora

Free Sewing Pattern PDF---Kid's A-Line Dress for Sizes 6 to 12

I have created the most requested A-line dress sewing pattern for kids sizes 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12. Here is the download link.

Once you have downloaded the file, you can print it from your home printer. It will print on 16 A4 sheets which need to be taped together.

How to Print and Assemble the PDF Pattern Pages:

Click here to learn how to print and assemble the PDF pattern pages. 

Pattern assembly is given below:

Size Chart:

This is the size chart I used. Please take your kid's bust round measurement and compare it with the measurement in the size chart to find the right size.

Seam allowances are included in the pattern.

Neck, shoulder, and armhole: 0.5 inch

Side seams: 1 inch 

Hem allowance: 1.5 inch

How to Sew?

I have already posted a three-part step-by-step tutorial here. 

I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Happy sewing!

---Flora

How to Draft a Summer Top with Yoke and Ruffled Sleeves

As summer is around the corner, today we will see how to easily draft a summer top with ruffled sleeves (frill sleeves) and a yoke style line at the front and back.

Front

Back

We will first draft this top using an A-line top pattern. Then at the chest we will add the yoke line which separates the top into two parts: a yoke part and a skirt part. We will then increase the skirt part's width to add some gathers so that we could change the top to a breezy summer top. This top can also be worn as a pajama top. As the last step, we will add ruffled sleeves to the top.

Pattern draft (both front and back draft are shown in the picture below):

[I have given the measurements in centimeters in boldface red-colored text for those who prefer using the metric system of measurements.]

Body measurements needed:

1. Full length of the top

2. Bust round

3. Shoulder width

4. Arm hole depth or scye depth

5. Front neck depth

6. Back neck depth

A to B = full length of the top, from shoulder point at neck to the desired length (the top length usually ends between the waist and hip.)

A to C = shoulder width/2

B to D = 1/4 bust + 2 inches for kids (4 inches for ladies) [1/4 chest + 5.08 cms for kids (10.16 cms for ladies)]

A to F = C to E = 1/4 bust - 1 (or) scye depth (both the measurements will be more or less the same). As this is a loose-fitting top worn in summer, you can lower down the armhole depth under the arms by 0.5 inch or 0.75 inch [1.27 cms to 1.905 cms], if you prefer.

F to G = 1/4 bust + 0.5 to 0.75 inch ease [1/4 chest + 1.27 cms to 1.905 cms ease]

C to H is 0.5 inch for kids and 1 inch for ladies [1.27 cms for kids and 2.54 cms for ladies].

A to I is 1/12 chest or as per your preference.

Join I with H.  IH is the shoulder slope.

Measure H to E. Mark a point L on HE which is half of the H to E measurement.

L to M = 0.5 inch [1.27 cms] for kids and 0.75 inch for ladies [1.905 cms].

Draw the front arm curve and back arm curve as shown in the picture.

Now we will draw the yoke style line. The yoke style line is usually drawn above the bust line. Here, we will calculate the depth of the yoke line A to N as three-fourth of the A to F measurement.

Draw the yoke style line from N, which touches the front arm curve at O and the back arm curve at P.

We will cut through the style line N-O to get the yoke part for the front and N-P to get the same for the back.

I wanted to add some gathers in the front and back skirt parts of the top for some fullness at the yoke line.  

For this, we need to increase the width of the skirt part of the top. So, we add N to Q = B to R =  3 to 5 inches [7.62 to 12.7 cms] (according to the fullness we would like to have at the yoke line).

A to J is back neck depth (usually 1 inch [2.54 cms]).

A to K is front neck depth (usually 1/12 chest + 0.5 inch [1/12 bust + 1.27 cms]).

Square down from C. Mark S where the squared line meets B to D. 

T to D is 0.5 inch for kids (0.75 inch for women).

Shape front and back necklines.

Join TSB with a curved line. This is the hemline.

Sleeve draft:

Now let's move onto the sleeve part. To draft the ruffled sleeve, you will have to measure the front and back arm curves, that is, the armhole measurement. For this, you need to arrange the front and back pieces of the basic A-line top as shown in the picture below.

                                                                  

Then, to add ruffles to the sleeve, you need to double or triple the armhole measurement, whichever you prefer. 

In the picture below, I have kept A to B two times the armhole measurement.

 

C is the center point of AB. Draw a perpendicular line from C and mark the sleeve width CD, which is usually 1 to 1.5 inches [2.54 to 3.81 cms]. We can increase the sleeve width according to our preference. Connect A-D-B. And our ruffled sleeve pattern is ready.

The image below shows the pattern pieces without seam allowances. 

We need to add seam allowances to these pattern pieces. 

Seam allowances for the front and back yoke:

0.375 inch at the neckline, yoke line, and armhole

Seam allowances for front and back skirt:

0.375 inch at the yoke line and armhole

0.75 inch at the side seam

1 inch at the hem line

Seam allowance for the ruffle sleeve:

0.375 inch at the armhole seam

0.50 inch at the hem line

We will cut the pieces on the fabric like this.

I have posted the sewing tutorial of the summer top here. 

I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Happy sewing!

---Flora
 

---Flora

Women's Kurta (Kameez) Free Sewing Pattern---Sizes XS to XXL---for Bust Sizes 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, and 44

I have been working on this kurta (kameez) pattern for a while, and finally it's ready to be posted today. I am so excited to share this pattern with you all.

Image source: Google Images

This is a semi-fitted straight kurta with side slits from the hipline. I have used the standard measurements to make this pattern.

You can increase or decrease the length of the kurta and the length of the sleeve as per your wish. You can also change the front neck depth, add a little flare from the hipline to the bottom hemline and close the side slit, or make a 4-inch slit at the center back from the neckline and finish it with a button and elastic loop closure, if you prefer to do so.

You can also use this pattern to make a shift dress.

There are totally 49 pages. Print the pattern on A4-sized papers.

Select "Actual size" when you print the pages.

How to Print and Assemble the PDF Pattern Pages:

Click here to learn how to print and assemble the PDF pattern pages. 

The pattern assembly is given below.  

The pattern download link is HERE. 

Note: Seam allowances are included in the pattern. 

Given below are the details of the seam allowances included in the pattern:

Kurta front and back pieces:

For neckline, shoulders, and sleeve cap, seam allowance is 0.375 inch.

For side seams: 1 inch

Hemline: 1.5 inches

Sleeve:

For sleeve cap: 0.375 inch

For side seams: 1 inch

Sleeve hemline: 1.5 inches

Please check this link on my blog if you want to learn how to draft a kurta or kameez: Kameez pattern draft. 

I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Happy sewing!

---Flora

Free Sewing Pattern---Women's Kurta (or Kameez) Size XS (Bust Size 30)

Recently I drafted the pattern for women's kameez (or kurta) in size XS (for a bust size of 30 inches). This is a medium-fit kameez.

Ease is included in the pattern, but seam allowances are not included. Please add seam allowances as given below.

Seam allowances to be added to the pattern: 

Around neck: 0.50 inch

Sleeve cap: 0.50 inch

Sleeve hemline: 1.5 inches

Shoulders: 0.50 inch

Side seam: 1 inch

Bottom hemline 2 inches

Body measurements used in this pattern:

Bust round: 30 inches

Waist round: 24 inches

Hip round: 34 inches

How to Print and Assemble the PDF Pattern Pages:

Click here to learn how to print and assemble the PDF pattern pages. 

I have drawn a small line at the front side seam and back side seam in the pattern to indicate the starting point for sewing the side slit. 

I have numbered the pattern pages from 1 to 15. Assemble the A4 pattern pages as given in the picture below and you will get your pattern together:

Here is the link to download the pattern: Kameez (kurta) free pattern pdf.  

Please check this link if you want to learn how to draft a kurta or kameez: Kameez pattern draft. 

I will soon post the kurta pattern in other sizes too. 

Note: You can find the kurta pattern in all sizes from XS to XXL at this link.

I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Happy sewing

---Flora

A-Line Dress with Peter Pan Collar Free Sewing Pattern for 18-Inch Dolls

Hi Everyone,

I am happy to share with you another new sewing pattern---A-line dress for 18-inch dolls with Peter Pan collar. Now you can make an A-line dress for your daughter's 18-inch doll to match with your daughter's A-line dress.

The measurements of the doll I used are

Chest 11.5 inches

Waist 11 inches

Hip 11.75 inches

This pattern will fit 18-inch dolls such as the American Girl® Doll and Our Generation® Doll and dolls with similar body measurements.

Here is the download link.

Pattern assembly is given below:

Seam allowances are included in the pattern. It is 1/2 inch for the sides, 1/4 inch for the armhole, neckline, and shoulders.

Hem allowance is 3/4 inch for the bottom hem fold.

Button extension is marked on the back pattern of the dress, which is 1-inch in width.

A 0.25 inch seam allowance is included for the collar piece.

I have used grey triangles on each page in the pattern to help you with matching the pages easily. 

You can find the sewing tutorial of the dress here. 

I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Happy sewing!

---Flora

Free PDF Sewing Pattern---Kids' Night Pants (Pajama Pants)---Size 11 years

I have uploaded a free sewing pattern for kids' size 11 years night pants with elasticated waist at this link.  Download the PDF pages and assemble the pages as shown in the picture below.

Cut 2 pieces each for front and back.

Seam allowances are already included in the pattern:

1.5 inches at the waist for casing for the elastic.

1.5 inches at the bottom for hem allowance.

0.50 inch for the side seam.

0.25 inch for the crotch seam and inseam.

I will try to post the pattern in other sizes too.

You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. You can download and use them to create your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Happy sewing!

---Flora

How to attach an embroidered patchwork with uneven edges to the neckline of a dress or top?---Tutorial

I made a kurta (or kameez) for me few weeks before, and it had a separate decorative embroidered yoke that had a neckline with uneven edges and cutwork leaf designs on the edges, which had to be lined because of the heavy embroidery with silk and metallic threads.

I would like to share the method for lining this type of neckline with a short tutorial. 

Step 1:

First, pin the embroidered neckline piece and the kurta front fabric together (place the kurta fabric below and the embroidered neckline piece on top of it, with the right side of the embroidered neckline facing the wrong side of the kurta front fabric). Then stick them on a glass window using adhesive tapes as shown in the image below. (You can use a light box as well.)

Trace the shape of the neckline on the wrong side of the embroidered neckline piece with a pencil. The royal blue fabric in the image is the kurta front fabric and the white fabric is the embroidered yoke piece with uneven neckline edges.

Traced neckline:

Step 2:

Without taking the pins off,  sew over the traced shape of the neck line. I sewed it by hand as I found sewing it by hand was easier than doing it with a sewing machine, as it had many curvy edges and cutwork leaves. 

Make sure you don't stitch over the cutwork leaves (highlighted in the image below). Fold them away, so that you don't catch them with the needle, and carefully stitch under them.

Step 3:

Then, cut along the shape of the hand-sewn neckline leaving a 0.25 inch seam allowance all around the neckline.

Step 4:

Make small slits around the neckline to get crisp edges when you turn it inside out. Now, turn the neckline inside out. Push the edges down and press both the embroidered fabric and the kurta front fabric along the neckline to keep the uneven edges neat and beautiful. (Make sure to cover the embroidery with a cotton fabric before you press over it, so that the embroidery threads won't get spoiled.)

Voila! You have got a neat-looking embroidered neckline!

You can also follow these steps to line blouses and dresses with necklines that have silk thread Maggam embroidery or heavy metallic thread embroidery.

You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Happy sewing!

Free Sewing Pattern---Women's Simple Top Size M

Today I want to share with you a simple top pattern in women's size M.

Here are the download links for the top's front, back, and sleeve.

Seam allowances are included in the pattern.

Side seam: 0.5 inch

Neck, shoulder, and sleeves: 0.375 inch

Cut the front and back on fold.

For your reference, below are the measurements I used to make the pattern. I have added an overall ease of 2 inches at the bust round. Preferable fabrics to make this top are woven fabrics such as cotton, linen, lawn cotton, poplin, etc.

Body measurements:

Shoulder width: 14 inches

Vertical measurements:

Full length of the top: 24 inches

Shoulder to Bust length: 10.5 inches

Shoulder to Waist length: 15 inches

Shoulder to Hip length: 23 inches

Round measurements:

Upper bust round: 35 inches

Bust round: 36 inches

Waist round: 29 inches

Hip round: 40 inches

Sleeve measurements:

Armhole round: 15 inches

Arm round: 13 inches

Sleeve length: 5 inches

Sewing instructions:

1. Join the shoulders.

2. Make a 4-inch slit at the center back down from the back neckline, and then attach a placket to conceal the raw edges of the opening.

3. Finish the neckline with bias tape.

4. Join the sides.

5. Attach the sleeves.

6. Finish the hemline.

You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. You can download and use them to create your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Happy sewing!

Flora