How to Draft a Raglan Style Top

The raglan-style top is one of the easiest designs to draft and sew. It serves as the foundation for peasant-style tops and is created using a basic blouse pattern as the starting point.

 

A raglan sleeve starts right at the neckline and extends diagonally down to the armhole, creating a smooth, slanted seam that gives the top its distinctive look and comfortable fit.

Click the link below to browse all the free PDF sewing patterns for women:

Free PDF Sewing Patterns for Women

Click the link below to browse all the free PDF sewing patterns for kids:

Free PDF Sewing Patterns for Kids

Click the link below to see the complete list of Free PDF Sewing Patterns for 18-Inch Dolls:

18-Inch Doll Clothes Free PDF Sewing Patterns

Pattern draft:

To draft your raglan top pattern, you’ll need the following measurements:

* Length of the top

* Bust circumference

* Shoulder width (measured from one shoulder edge to the other)

* Neck depth (front and back)

* Armhole depth

Front:

A to B = Length of the top (as per your preference)
A to C = Neck depth
A to D = 1/8 bust + 2.5 inches (or scye depth measurement, i.e., armhole depth measurement or 1/4 bust - 1)

D to E = 1/4 bust + 0.75-inch ease (ease can be reduced when you use a stretchy fabric to sew this top)

B to F is same as D to E or plus 2 inches for kids' size(4 inches for women's size) if you want flare at the hemline
A to G = Half of the shoulder measurement
G to H = Blouse's shoulder width you prefer

(or A to H = bust/12 + 0.25 inch or the measurement from the center of the neck to where you want your blouse's neckline to sit on the shoulder at neck.) 

G to I = 1 inch (reduce this to 0.50 inch to 0.75 inch for kids' sizes)

IE is the armhole curve of the basic bodice, which is not required here.

Shape the front neckline HC.

Connect A and E. Mark point J where the line AE meets the neckline.

Draw a vertical line from I which meets the line DE at point K.
Mark point L 1 inch from K (for women's blouses) (this could be 1/2 inch for kids under 8 years and 3/4 inch for kids 9 to 12 years). Shape ELJ.

AB is where you keep the fold in the fabric when you cut the front piece.



Back:

Same as front except for the following changes:

A to C represents the back neck depth, which is typically 1 inch.

 

If you’re working with a knit (stretch) fabric, this depth is usually sufficient, as the stretch will allow the top to slip comfortably over your head.

 

However, if you’re using a non-stretch (woven or non-woven) fabric, it’s important to add a small slit or opening at the center back. This will make it easier to put on and take off the top without straining the neckline.

 

Tip: You can finish the slit with a button loop or hook-and-eye closure for a neat and functional finish.

Mark point L 1.5 inch from K (for women's blouses) (this could be 3/4 inch for kids under 8 years and 1 inch for kids 9 to 12 years). Shape ELJ.

AB is where you keep the fold on the fabric when you cut the back piece.






Sleeve:

A to B = 1/8 bust + 2.5 inches (or 1/4 bust - 1 or scye depth, i.e., armhole depth)
A to C = Neck depth
A to O = Half of the shoulder measurement
A to D = A to G in the front blouse draft
B to F = 1/4 bust + 0.75-inch ease (the same ease you kept for the blouse front) 
Draw a vertical line from O which meets BF at point P.
Connect A and F. Mark point Q where the line AF meets the neckline.
Mark point G where lines OP and AF cross.
G to I = 1 inch (this could be 1/2 inch for kids under 8 years and 3/4 inch for kids 9 to 12 years)
G to H = 1.5 inch (this could be 3/4 inch for kids under 8 years and 1 inch for kids 9 to 12 years)

Shape sleeve front armhole FHQ and back armhole FIQ.
D to L = Length of the sleeve from D plus 2 to 3 inches for fullness at the arm round of the puffed sleeve.

AL = BE

Connect L and E.

L to N = Half sleeve round + 0.5 inch ease (you can reduce ease if you are using a knit fabric)
Join F and N.
N to M = 0.75 inch
Join L and M with a curved line.

AL is where you keep the fold in the fabric when you cut the sleeve pieces.








Add seam and hem allowances:

For blouse front and back:

3/8 inch for the armhole.
3/4 inch for the neckline 
1/2 inch or 1 inch on the sides.
3/4 inch for the blouse bottom hemline

For sleeves:

3/8 inch for the sleeve cap curve.
1/2 inch or 1 inch for the sides.

3/4 inch at the sleeve hemline.

1/2 inch for the neckline (The sleeves start from the neckline, so they make part of the neckline.)

Mkae sure to cut the front, back, and sleeve pattern pieces on fold.

I have posted a free PDF sewing pattern for kids' peasant blouse for sizes 1 year to 12 years at the link below:

Click this link for the free PDF sewing pattern for Kids' peasant blouse for sizes 1 year to 12 years.

How to Sew?

Step 1: Cut out the front, back, and sleeve pattern pieces.

Step 2: Attach the sleeves with the front and back bodices:

With right sides facing, attach the sleeves to the front and back bodices.


Step 3: Join the sides.

Step 4. Finish the neckline and sleeve hemline by attaching a bias tape to them. And then attach the sleeves to the armhole round.

Step 5. Sew the side seams.

Step 6. Hem the bottom of the blouse.

Fold down the hemline to the wrong side by 1/4 first, and again by 1/2 inch and sew along the folded edge. 

That's it! Done.

Please leave your comments and questions in the comments section under this post. I will be happy to answer.

Click here for the free PDF sewing pattern for Kids' peasant blouse for sizes 1 year to 12 years.

You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. You can download and use them to create your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Happy Sewing!

--Flora

DIY Embroidered Cottage Core Hair Bows (with Free PDF Sewing Pattern)

A handmade embroidered hair bow adds a touch of charm and elegance to any outfit. In this tutorial, I’ll walk you through making your own cottage core bows (two variations-- a simple bow and a bow with long ties), from fabric selection and pattern creation to embroidery and sewing.

Bring a touch of storybook charm to your hairstyle with these handcrafted embroidered hair bows. 

Perfect for braids, ponytails, or clipped at the side, these bows blend vintage elegance with handmade warmth. Whether you’re wandering through a garden, dressing up for a picnic, or simply adding a dreamy accent to everyday outfits, an embroidered cottage core bow is the perfect finishing touch.

It's lightweight and comfortable – easy to wear all day.

It has a timeless style – pairs beautifully with dresses, skirts, and cosy knitwear.

A sweet accessory for lovers of slow, handmade fashion.

Supplies You’ll Need

* Fabric: Medium-weight cotton, linen, or cotton-blend canvas (approx. ¼ yard)

* Embroidery floss: Colors of your choice (DMC or Anchor work well)

* Embroidery hoop: 5–6 inch size is ideal

* Embroidery needles: Sharp, with a medium eye

* Water-soluble fabric marker or heat-erasable pen

* Fabric scissors or rotary cutter

* Pins or sewing clips

* Sewing machine (or hand sewing needle for small finishes)

* Iron and ironing board

* Hair clip or elastic band (optional for finishing)

Pattern Creation

1. Bow base: Draw two rectangles 5" × 3" (for the bow loops).

2. Tails: Draw two rectangles 14" × 3". Cut the ends into curved shape for a classic ribbon look.

3. Center knot: Draw a small rectangle 2.5" × 2".

4. Add ½" seam allowance all around.

5. Download link for the free PDF hair bow pattern is at the end of this blogpost. 👇

Embroidery Preparation

1. Trace 1 bow piece and 1 tail piece onto the fabric for embroidering, and then secure the fabric in the embroidery hoop. Trace and and cut out the other pieces of bow and tail, as well as the center piece, and keep them aside.

2. Using your favourite transferring method, tranfer your embroidery designs onto the bow base and tails.

3. Place fabric with the designs in your embroidery hoop.

4. Choose stitches as you like, and finish the embroidery.

👉 Tip: Keep your embroidery within 1/2" of the seam edges so the design is visible after sewing.

Sewing Tutorial

1. Cut fabric: Once embroidered, cut out your bow, tail, and knot pieces.

2. Sew bow base:

   * Sew the two rectangle, right sides together, leaving a 1 1/2 inch opening at the center of the longer lower edge.   

   * Turn right-side out, close the opening by whip stitching it, and press.

* Thread a needle and pass it through the center of the bow  pieces, starting at the bottom edge and coming out at the top edge. Form accordion pleats as you stitch, then wrap the thread several times tightly around the centre to secure the gathers in place.”

3. Sew tails:

   * Place two tail pieces right sides together.

   * Sew around edges, leaving a 1 1/2 inch opening at the center of the top edge.

   * Clip corners, turn right-side out, close the opening by whip stitching it, and press.

    * Thread a needle and pass it through the center of the bow’s tail pieces, starting at the bottom edge and coming out at the top edge. Form accordion pleats as you stitch, then wrap the thread several times tightly around the centre to secure the gathers in place.

4. Sew knot piece:

   

   * Fold down the short edges of the small rectangle by 1/2 inch and sew along the folded edge.

   * Fold lengthwise, right sides together.

   * Sew along the long edge, turn right-side out, and press.

5. Assemble:

   * Fold bow base into loops (ends overlapping at the center).

   * Layer tails below the bow.

   * Wrap knot piece around center and hand-stitch or machine-stitch securely.

   * Attach to a clip or elastic band if desired.

Attaching the Bow to a Hair Clip

1. Choose the clip

   • Alligator clip (great for everyday wear, easy to slip in).

   • French barrette (more secure for thicker hair).

2. Wrap the bow center

   • Keep your bow’s middle “knot” piece (the small fabric strip you used to cinch the bow).

   • Before stitching it down completely, slide the clip underneath.

3. Secure by stitching or glue

   • Hand-sew through the fabric and clip holes (if using a barrette).

   • Or, apply a strong fabric glue or hot glue directly onto the flat part of the clip, then press the bow in place. Hold until set.

Attaching the Bow to a Hair Elastic

1. Make a loop in the center piece

   • When wrapping the small fabric strip around the bow’s center, slide the elastic band into place.

   • The strip should enclose both the bow and the elastic.

2. Sew securely

   • Overlap the ends of the center strip tightly and hand-sew the ends, ensuring the elastic is trapped inside.

   • Reinforce with a few extra stitches so it won’t pull loose.

3. Optional reinforcement

   • Add a dab of fabric glue or hot glue for extra durability, especially if the bow will be worn often.

✨ You’ve now created a gorgeous embroidered bow with ties! Perfect for gifts, everyday wear, or special occasions.

Finishing Touches

* Press gently with a warm iron (avoid ironing directly on embroidery).

* Trim loose threads.

* Add fabric stiffener for extra structure.

Variations

* Use velvet or satin for a dressy look.

* Try monogram embroidery for personalization.

* Add beads or sequins for sparkle.

Download Link:

👉 Cottage Core Hair Bow Free PDF Pattern

Happy Sewing!

---Flora

Tiered Skirt Sewing Tutorial

A flowy, tiered skirt is one of those timeless pieces every sewist loves to make. Comfortable, flattering, and endlessly versatile — it’s perfect for everyday wear, layering, or dressing up with romantic details. 

This sewing tutorial shows you step by step how to sew your own beautiful, flowy skirt — perfect for twirling the day away.

And yes, this skirt fits beautifully into the dreamy cottagecore aesthetic — think: twirling through meadows, sipping tea in the garden, or strolling to the farmer’s market with a woven basket. 

Supplies You’ll Need to Make the 3-Tiered Skirt

Supplies You’ll Need to Make the 3-Tiered Skirt

* Fabric – 3 to 5.5 yards depending on waist size (see chart below)

* 1.5" wide elastic – length = waist measurement or waist measurement – 1 inch

* Thread – matching or contrasting, all-purpose polyester or cotton

* Sewing machine – with straight and zig-zag stitch * Serger (if available)

* Fabric scissors or rotary cutter

* Pins or sewing clips – to hold gathers and seams in place

* Measuring tape – for waist measurement and cutting lengths

* Iron & ironing board – for pressing seams and hem

* Chalk or fabric marker – to mark cutting lines and notches

* Optional:

* Lightweight fusible interfacing (if you want a sturdier waistband)

* Extra fabric for side seam pockets

* Ruler or quilting ruler (for cutting straight edges)

Fabric Choice

This skirt works best with lightweight to medium-weight fabrics that drape nicely:

* Cotton lawn or cotton voile – breathable and soft for summer.

* Linen blends – give structure but still flowy and breezy.

* Rayon challis or viscose – creates beautiful movement.

* Lightweight chambray – casual and perfect for everyday wear.

Tip: For a more cottagecore look, try soft florals, gingham, earthy solids, or delicate prints.

Fabric Requirements by Size

This skirt is based on waist sizes 26–60 inches and includes generous gathers for each tier. Yardage assumes 44" wide fabric. If using wider fabric (54"–60"), you may need slightly less.

👉 Add an **extra ½ yard** if you want:

* To lengthen the skirt

* To cut the waistband on the fold

* To add pockets

Sewing Tutorial: Step-by-Step

1. Cut Your Pieces

* Waistband: A rectangle the length of your waist measurement + 1" seam allowance, and 5" wide.

* Tier 1 (Top Tier): 1.5 × waist measurement in width, desired length (usually 10–12").

* Tier 2 (Middle Tier): 2 × waist measurement in width, same length as Tier 1.

* Tier 3 (Bottom Tier): 2.5 × waist measurement in width, same or slightly longer than Tier 1.

2. Sew the Tier Seams

* Sew the short sides of each tier rectangle together to form loops. Finish raw edges with zig-zag or serger.

3. Gather Each Tier

* Run two rows of long basting stitches along the top edge of Tier 1, Tier 2, and Tier 3.

* Gently pull threads to gather until they match the width of the tier above. For Tier 1, the gathered top edge should match the bottom edge of the waistband (after the side seams of the waistband are closed).

4. Assemble the Skirt

* Attach Tier 2 to Tier 1 (right sides together), easing gathers evenly.

* Attach Tier 3 to Tier 2 the same way. Press seams downward.

5. Add the Waistband

* Sew the seams of the waistband together.

* Fold the top and bottom edges of the waistband 1/2 inch and press.

* Fold the waistband in half lengthwise (wrong sides together) and press.

* Sew the waistband to Tier 1, leaving a 2" gap for elastic.

* Insert elastic (waist measurement + 1" for overlap). Stitch ends of elastic securely, then close the gap.

6. Hem the Skirt

* Turn up hem ½", press, fold again, and stitch.

And that’s it! You have a beautiful, swishy, tiered skirt.

Cottagecore Fashion and the Tiered Skirt

Cottagecore embraces the romantic, nostalgic aesthetic of rural life — cozy days, simple living, wildflowers, and handmade garments. The tiered skirt fits perfectly within this style: it’s feminine, floaty, and versatile enough to wear with a ruffled blouse, chunky knit cardigan, or even barefoot in the grass. 🌸

By making your own, you not only embrace slow fashion but also infuse your wardrobe with a garment that feels authentic, dreamy, and truly yours.

This 3-tiered skirt pattern is perfect for beginners who want a fun, confidence-boosting project, as well as experienced sewists looking for a timeless addition to their handmade wardrobe. With its size-inclusive design and endless fabric options, you’ll want to make more than one!

Happy Sewing!

---Flora

Women's Reversible Vest with Tie Strings--Free PDF Sewing Pattern and Sewing Tutorial

 

Looking for a quick, beginner-friendly layering piece to add a handmade touch to your wardrobe? This Women’s Tie Front Vest is the perfect project! Light, breezy, and reversible, it’s ideal for wearing over dresses, tees, and even turtlenecks as seasons change.

This vest pattern is available as a free PDF in bust sizes 30–44 inches (XS–XXL), ensuring you can sew a comfortable fit just for you. The gentle curved front, sweet tie closure, and simple lines make it a timeless piece you’ll reach for again and again.

Best of all, this vest is fully reversible! Choose a pretty floral cotton on one side and a classic stripe or solid on the other for two looks in one. You can play with your favorite prints and colors, adding contrast bias binding for that extra pop. 

If you’re new to garment sewing, this project is a fantastic confidence builder, letting you practice neat bias finishing and reversible construction without complicated closures. Pair it with jeans for everyday wear or throw it over a dress for an effortless layered look.

Ready to stitch your own reversible vest? Download the free PDF sewing pattern and step into your sewing space with excitement!

Click the link below to browse all the free PDF sewing patterns for women:

Free PDF Sewing Patterns for Women

Click the link below to browse all the free PDF sewing patterns for kids:

Free PDF Sewing Patterns for Kids

Click the link below to see the complete list of Free PDF Sewing Patterns for 18-Inch Dolls:

18-Inch Doll Clothes Free PDF Sewing Patterns

 

*This post contains affiliate links, which means I make a small commission at no extra cost to you. 

Sewing Supplies Needed:

1. Fabric 

2. Free printable PDF sewing pattern (pattern link is given below)

3. Printer paper

4. Sewing machine (I am using Janome and Bernina. Both are excellent sewing machines. Brother is equally good too. I have heard good reviews about it.)

5. Sewing machine thread (I prefer using Gütermann and Coats, which are of great quality.)

6. Tape measure

7. Sewing pins

8. Serger (I am using Brother M343D, which works great.)

This is the measurement chart I used to create this pattern. Please select your pattern size according to your bust size. 

Download link:

Click here to download the women's reversible vest free PDF sewing pattern.

How to Print and Assemble the PDF Pattern Pages:

Click here to learn how to print and assemble the PDF pattern pages.

Please use the below diagram as a guide to assemble the pattern pages:

Pattern Assembly:

The diagram below is given as a guide to assemble the pattern pages. There are 8 pages in the pattern PDF. And these pages are arranged as shown in the diagram.

Seam Allowance:

Seam allowance is included in the pattern, which is 1/2 inch all around.

Note: This pattern includes approximately 3 inches of ease around the bust line. However, if you have a fuller bust or plan to make a quilted vest, consider adding ¾ inch or more to each side seam of both the front and back pieces. Additionally, if you intend to wear the vest over a shirt or top made of heavier fabric, you may wish to lower the armhole by about an inch—or adjust it further based on your preference.

Fabric Requirement for the Reversible Tie Front Vest

Recommended Fabric:

Light to medium-weight cotton, linen, cotton lawn, lightweight denim, chambray, or rayon blends.

Fabric Requirement Chart:

Here is the fabric requirement chart for the reversible tie front vest (XS–XXL) in both metres and yards, for main fabric and lining.

Additional Notes:

✅ If you wish to make your own bias tape for armholes and neckline, add 0.25 m (0.3 yd) extra of either fabric for bias strips.
✅ Fabric widths assumed: 44–60 inches (112–150 cm).
✅ If using directional prints, consider adding 0.1 m (0.1 yd) for pattern matching.
✅ You can use the same fabric for the main and lining for a single-sided vest if desired.

Sewing the Vest:

1. Join the shoulders of outer and lining.

2. Sew side seams for both layers.

3. Place right sides together, sew around edges leaving an opening.

4. Clip curves, turn right side out, press neatly.

5. Edge stitch if desired for a crisp finish.

6. Attach bias binding around armholes, neckline, and hemline.

7. Add the front ties.

Finishing:

• Press the vest.

• Optional topstitching for neatness.

I have provided a reversible bolero vest sewing tutorial for 18 inch dolls here with free PDF sewing pattern. Please do check it out.

If you are looking for more free sewing patterns,

click on this link Free Sewing Patterns Page. 

Click the links below to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

You will find these link also at the top of this blog page (under the blog title).

Happy sewing!

---Flora