How to Sew an 8-Gore Flared Skirt for an 18-Inch Doll (with Free PDF Printable Sewing Pattern)

Today we will see how to sew an 8-gore skirt with elasticated waist for an 18-inch doll.

The measurements of the doll I used are

Chest 11.5 inches

Waist 11 inches

Hip 11.75 inches

This pattern will fit most of the18-inch dolls like Our Generation dolls and American Girl© dolls.

This post contains affiliate links, which means I make a small commission at no extra cost to you. 

Sewing Supplies Needed:

1. Fabric (I used a patchwork cotton fabric)

2. Free printable PDF sewing pattern for the 8-gore skirt with elasticated waist for an 18-inch doll (pattern link is given below)

3. Printer paper

4. Sewing machine (Both Janome and Bernina work well for me. Brother is equally good too. I made this dress using my Janome sewing machine.)

5. Sewing machine thread (I prefer Gütermann and Coats, which are of great quality.)

6. Tape measure

7. Sewing pins

8. 3/8-inch-wide, 10-inch-long elastic

9. Serger (I am using Brother M343D, which works great)

Free pattern download link:

Click here to download the free PDF printable pattern for the 8-gore skirt with elasticated waist for an 18-inch doll.

Seam allowances:

Seam allowances are included in the pattern, 0.75 inch at the hemline and at the waistline (for creating the casing for elastic) and 0.25 inch at the side seams. Seam lines are marked in the pattern with dashed lines.

Fabric Suggestion:

You will need a 38 cm by 40 cm (15.75 inches by 15 inches) fabric to make this skirt. However you can use different colors for each gore to create a color-blocked skirt.

 You can use cotton, cotton lawn, poplin, or linen, or flowy fabrics such as crepe, satin, or rayon. I used a patchwork cotton fabric to make this skirt.

How to Print Out the Pattern Pages:

This is a one-page pdf. 

Print the pattern page on an A4 paper. Make sure you have set page sizing to "Actual size" before you print the pattern. 

You can measure the 1 inch x 1 inch square in the pattern page to check whether the page has printed correctly.

Cut out the pattern pieces.

This is how you will arrange the pattern pieces (8 gores) on the fabric to use the fabric efficiently. 

 

Repeat this to step cut the four skirt back pieces.

How to Sew the Skirt?

1. Join the gore pieces: 

Serge the sides of all the gore pieces.

Take the two center gore pieces of the skirt front. With right sides together, join these center gore pieces with a 1/4 inch seam allowance .

Open the seams, and press the seam allowances flat.

On the right side sew edge stitches 1/8 inch away from the seam. Make sure the seam allowances remain open and flat on the wrong side when you sew the edge stitches on the right side of the skirt. 

A close-up picture:

And then join the side gore pieces with the center gore pieces.

Wrong side:

Right side: 

Repeat these steps for the skirt's back gore pieces as well.

I have shown here how to join the 8 gore pieces to make the skirt.

2. Join the side seams:

With right sides together, join the sides of the front and back parts of the skirt.

3. Finish the hemline of the skirt:

Fold the hemline over by 0.25 inch.

And then again by 0.5 inch, and sew along the folded edge.

Inside of the skirt.

This is how the skirt looks on the right side.

4. Finish the elasticated waistband:

There is no separate waist band in this pattern. We need to fold the waistline by 0.25 inch and then again by 0.50 inch, and sew over the folded edge leaving a small gap to feed the elastic in. Insert a 3/8-inch-wide, 10-inch-long elastic through the casing, and overlap the ends of the elastic by 0.25 inch and sew them together. Sew the gap in the casing closed.

Voila! A cute skirt is ready for your doll!

For you easy reference, I have organized my blog posts under the following sections. Hope it's useful to you:

Free printable PDF sewing patterns 

Pattern drafting tutorials

Sewing tutorials

These links appear at the top of my blog on the navigation bar as well.

Happy sewing!  

---Flora

How to Draft Women's Ganni Inspired Tie Front Peplum Top

Today we we will see how to draft the beautiful Ganni Inspired tie front peplum top.

This top has two parts: the bodice part and the peplum part. The bodice is drafted up to the waist, and the peplum part extends up to the hip line. However, you can decrease the length of this top by reducing the length of the peplum part.

The bodice part is open at the center front, and cloth ties are attached for fastening. The top can be worn as a sleeveless top, or different styles of sleeves can be attached. In this draft, I have shown how to draft a puffed sleeve that has fullness at the shoulders and at the hemline, which ends at the elbow.

Measurements Needed:

For Bodice:

1. Top length (for this draft it is the length from the neck up to the hip.)

2. Waist length (from neck to waist)

3. Scye depth

4. Front neck depth

5. Back neck depth

6. Bust round

7. Shoulder (from one shoulder edge point to the other shoulder edge point)

8. Neck width

For Peplum:

1. Waist to hip length (i.e., top' full length minus the bodice length)

For Sleeves:

1. Sleeve cap (from shoulder to biceps)

2. Biceps circumference

3. Sleeve length (here it is up to the elbow)

4. Elbow circumference

Pattern Draft:

Front and Back Bodices:

Front Bodice:

A-B = Waist length

Draw horizontal lines from A, C, and B.

A to C = Scye depth + 0.5 inch

A to D = Shoulder/2 + 0.25 inch

A to E = Neck width/2 + 0.5 inch (or bust round/12 + 0.25. You can change this according to how wider you want the neckline to be.)

Square down from D and E.

D to F = 1 inch

A to G = Front neck depth

Shape front neckline EG.

C to H = Bust round/4 + 1 inch ease (This is a loose-fitted top. So I have added a design ease of 1 inch here. You can change it as per your preference.) 

Mark point I on the squared down line from D where it meets the horizontal line CH.

I to J = inch

Mark K, which is midpoint of FJ.

K to L = 3/4 inch

Shape front bodice armhole FLJH.

Square down from H.

Mark point M where this squared down line meets the horizontal line from B. (CH is equal to BM)

M to N = 3/4 inch. 

As we have opening at the center front bodice, we need to cut two pieces for the front bodice, one for the left and one for the right.

Back Bodice:

Same as for the front bodice, except the neckline and armhole.

A to Q = Back neck depth (This measurement is lesser than the front neck depth for this top.)

Shape back bodice armhole FKH.

Back bodice is cut on fold.

Top's peplum part:

For the peplum part of the top, you will need a rectangular piece of fabric with width (i.e. height of the peplum) that is equal to your waist to hip measurement (you can decrease the height as per your preference) and length that is 1.5 or 2 times (according to where you want to have the seams and how much fullness you prefer) the bottom round measurement of your stitched bodice. We will create gathers on the top of this rectangular piece to make its length equal to the bottom round measurement of our stitched bodice and then sew them together on the wrong side.

Sleeve:

Please check the below link to learn how to draft the puffed sleeve pattern that has fullness both at the shoulders and at the hemline.

 

 

Seam allowances:

Seam allowances are included in the pattern.

Top's bodice part:

1/2 inch for the neck line, armhole, and the center front

1 inch for the sides

Seam allowances for the peplum part of the top:

1/2 for the top of the rectangle

1/2 inch for the bottom hemline of the rectangle

1/2 inch on each of the width sides to attach the bias tape at the center front (if you want the peplum to be open at the center front.) (But you can keep the center front closed as well.)

(or)

if you want the peplum to be closed at the center front, leave a 1/2-inch seam allowance on each of the width sides and join at the center front.

(or)

If you want the seams to be on the sides, then cut the rectangular piece vertically into two pieces, add 1 inch seam allowances on all the four width sides. Join these two rectangular pieces together on both sides, gather them at the top, and pin it to the bottom round of the bodice, making sure you match the side seams of the bodice and peplum and sew them together on the wrong side.

Seam allowances for the sleeve:

1 inch for the sides

3/4 in for the hemline

1/2 inch for the sleeve cap curve

I have posted a free PDF sewing pattern for this top at this link. Click the link to download the pattern pages to make this beautiful top for you.

Click on the link Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the links below to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

Pattern drafting tutorials 

Sewing tutorials 

Happy sewing!

---Flora

Kids' Button-Down Sleeveless A-Line Top Free PDF Sewing Pattern for Sizes 1 Year to 12 Years

Today I would like to share with you a new free PDF sewing pattern---Kids' Button-Down Sleeveless A-Line Top for kids' sizes 1 Year to 12 Years which I created today.

The top is open at the center front where buttons can be added. This is a fully lined sleeveless top. Center front extends 3/4 inch on both sides to accommodate the buttons and buttonholes. You can embellish the center front with laces as well (as in the picture), if you prefer to add a creative touch to the top.

Seam Allowances:

Seam allowances are included in the pattern.

3/8 inch for the shoulders, armholes, center front, and the  neckline.

3/8 inch for the sides and the hemline.

Download Link:

Here is the download link:

Kids' Button-Down Sleeveless A-Line Top Free PDF Sewing Pattern for Sizes 1 Year to 12 Years

How to Print and Assemble the PDF Pattern Pages:

Click here to learn how to print and assemble the PDF pattern pages. 

Supplies Needed:

1. Fabric (main and lining)

2. Measuring tape

3. Matching thread

4. 1/2-inch-wide buttons

5. Sewing machine

6. Scissors

7. Sewing pins

8. Fabric marker or pencil

How to Sew:

1. Join the main fabric front and back pieces at the shoulders, with right sides together. Repeat this for the lining.

2. With right sides together, match the necklines, center front, and armholes of the lining and main pieces and sew. 

3. Join the sides of the top.

4. Finish the hemline by folding the main and lining each under by 3/8 inch.

5. Sew the buttons and buttonholes onto the center front extensions.

Click on the link Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the links below to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Happy sewing!

---Flora

How to Sew a Simple Top with Short Sleeves for 18-Inch Dolls Using the French Seams Method? (With Free PDF Printable Sewing Pattern)

Today's sewing tutorial is about "how to sew a simple top with short sleeves for 18-inch dolls using the French seams method."

A French seam encloses the seam allowance on the inside of a garment, so the raw edge is hidden and not visible outside. We will learn how to do it in this tutorial. We will use the French seam for the shoulders, sleeve curves, and the side seams.

I have posted the free PDF printable sewing pattern for this top at the link below. I have increased the seam allowance by another 1/4 inch wherever we use the French seams.

The measurements of the doll I used are

Chest 11.5 inches

Waist 11 inches

Hip 11.75 inches

This pattern will fit most of the18-inch dolls like Our Generation dolls and American Girl© dolls.

Download link:

A Simple Top with Short Sleeves for 18-Inch Dolls Using French Seam Method

I have also posted a free PDF pattern and sewing tutorial for the 8-gore flared skirt in the picture at the below link:

8-Gore Flared Skirt Free PDF Pattern and Sewing Tutorial

 

Materials needed:

*This post contains affiliate links, which means I make a small commission at no extra cost to you. 

Sewing Supplies Needed:

1. Fabric

2. Printer paper

3. Sewing machine

4. Sewing machine thread

5. Scissors

6. Measuring tape

7. Fabric marker or pencil

8. Hook and loop strips or snap fasteners

9. Free printable PDF sewing pattern (pattern link is given below)

10. Sewing pins

How to Print and Assemble the PDF Pattern Pages:

Click here to learn how to print and assemble the PDF pattern pages. 

There are two pattern pages to print. Go to the download link and print the PDF pattern pages. 

While printing, set the page size to 'Actual size.' Print Page 1 and measure the 1 inch x 1 inch test square to check whether the page has printed correctly. If not, check whether the page settings are proper. Then proceed to print.

Seam and Hem Allowances:

Seam and hem allowances are included in the pattern. As we will use the French seam for the shoulders, sleeve curves, and the side seams, I have increased the seam allowances from the usual 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch for these.

Front and back pieces:

1/4 inch for neckline

1/2 for the shoulders

1/2 inch for armhole 

1/2 in for the sides

3/4 is the hem allowance

Sleeves:

1/2 inch for sleeve cap curve 

1/2 in for the sides

3/4 is the hem allowance

These are the printed pages of the pattern.

How to Sew?

1. Join the front and back shoulders.

We will be using the French seam method in this project to conceal all the raw edges. French seam is nothing but joining the seams on the wrong side first and then joining again on the right side. So we don't have to use a serger.

Let's start sewing.

With wrong sides of the front and back pieces facing, join them at the shoulders, with a seam allowance of 1/4 inch.

Turn it to the wrong side, and sew again (with 1/4 inch seam allowance) to conceal the raw edges.

 This is how the top looks on the right side.

2. Attach the sleeves.

Fold the sleeve hemline 1/4 inch down the wrong side.

Fold again by 1/2 inch down the wrong side and sew along the folded edge.

Now we will attach the sleeves. Make sure you pick the correct sleeve to match with the armhole of the top. Right with right and left with left.

Now, before attaching, to we need to gather the sleeve cap to attach the sleeve to the armhole.

Set the stitch length to the longest, and stitch a row of stitches along the edge of the sleeve cap. Gather the cap of the sleeve by gently pulling the threads. We are doing this to ease out the extra fabric on the sleeve cap to fit it into the top's armhole. In order to get the curve of the sleeve to fit into the armhole, it has to have a certain amount of ease.

With the wrong sides of the sleeve and top facing, pin the sleeve cap to the top's armhole and ease out the gathers, and then sew the sleeve and cap and armhole together, leaving a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Once done, pick out the long stiches used for gathering the sleeve cap. 

This is how it looks on the wrong side.

Sew again on the wrong side to conceal the raw edges (leaving a 1/8 inch seam allowance).

This is how it looks on the right side.

Let's try this on our doll.

It fits perfectly. Let's attach the other sleeve.

Right side of the top and sleeve.

Wrong side of the top and sleeve. No raw edges are to be seen.

3. Finish the neckline by attaching bias tape.

Take a 1 inch wide bias fabric with length a little more than the length of the neckline.

Fold both sides of the button extensions by 1/4 inch and then by 1/2 inch. Press well to keep the folds.

Pin the bias fabric to the neckline leaving half an inch trail of the bias fabric at both edges of the neckline. Make sure you have the button extension folded in by 1/4 inch. 

Sew the bias fabric to the neckline leaving a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Trim and clip the seam allowance for a nice and  smooth edge and to reduce bulk.

Fold the bias fabric's widthwise edge at the button extension to the wrong side by 1/4 inch. 

Now fold the bias fabric lengthwise by half to the wrong side, and then fold again to bring it fully to the wrong side. Sew along the folded edge. I hemmed by hand for a nicer finish.

Now fold the button extension by 1/2 an inch to the wrong side using the fold that you pressed already and sew along the folded edge. 

4. Finish the sides using the same French seam method.

5. Finish the hemline.

And the top is ready!