Today's sewing tutorial is about "how to sew a simple top with short sleeves for 18-inch dolls using the French seams method."
A French seam encloses the seam allowance on the inside of a garment, so the raw edge is hidden and not visible outside. We will learn how to do it in this tutorial. We will use the French seam for the shoulders, sleeve curves, and the side seams.
I have posted the free PDF printable sewing pattern for this top at the link below. I have increased the seam allowance by another 1/4 inch wherever we use the French seams.
Download link:
A Simple Top with Short Sleeves for 18-Inch Dolls Using French Seam Method
I have also posted a free PDF pattern and sewing tutorial for the 8-gore flared skirt in the picture at the below link:
8-Gore Flared Skirt Free PDF Pattern and Sewing Tutorial
Materials needed:
*This post contains affiliate links, which means I make a small commission at no extra cost to you.
Sewing Supplies Needed:
1. Fabric
2. Printer paper
3. Sewing machine
4. Sewing machine thread
5. Scissors
6. Measuring tape
7. Fabric marker or pencil
8. Hook and loop strips or snap fasteners
9. Free printable PDF sewing pattern (pattern link is given below)
10. Sewing pins
How to Print and Assemble the PDF Pattern Pages:
There are two pattern pages to print. Go to the download link and print the PDF pattern pages.
While printing, set the page size to 'Actual size.' Print Page 1 and measure the 1 inch x 1 inch test square to check whether the page has printed correctly. If not, check whether the page settings are proper. Then proceed to print.
Seam and Hem Allowances:
Seam and hem allowances are included in the pattern. As we will use the French seam for the shoulders, sleeve curves, and the side seams, I have increased the seam allowances from the usual 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch for these.
Front and back pieces:
1/4 inch for neckline
1/2 for the shoulders
1/2 inch for armhole
1/2 in for the sides
3/4 is the hem allowance
Sleeves:
1/2 inch for sleeve cap curve
1/2 in for the sides
3/4 is the hem allowance
These are the printed pages of the pattern.
How to Sew?
1. Join the front and back shoulders.
We will be using the French seam method in this project to conceal all the raw edges. French seam is nothing but joining the seams on the wrong side first and then joining again on the right side. So we don't have to use a serger.
Let's start sewing.
With wrong sides of the front and back pieces facing, join them at the shoulders, with a seam allowance of 1/4 inch.
Turn it to the wrong side, and sew again (with 1/4 inch seam allowance) to conceal the raw edges.
This is how the top looks on the right side.
2. Attach the sleeves.
Fold the sleeve hemline 1/4 inch down the wrong side.
Fold again by 1/2 inch down the wrong side and sew along the folded edge.
Now we will attach the sleeves. Make sure you pick the correct sleeve to match with the armhole of the top. Right with right and left with left.
Now, before attaching, to we need to gather the sleeve cap to attach the sleeve to the armhole.
Set the stitch length to the longest, and stitch a row of stitches along the edge of the sleeve cap. Gather the cap of the sleeve by gently pulling the threads. We are doing this to ease out the extra fabric on the sleeve cap to fit it into the top's armhole. In order to get the curve of the sleeve to fit into the armhole, it has to have a certain amount of ease.
With the wrong sides of the sleeve and top facing, pin the sleeve cap to the top's armhole and ease out the gathers, and then sew the sleeve and cap and armhole together, leaving a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Once done, pick out the long stiches used for gathering the sleeve cap.
This is how it looks on the wrong side.
Sew again on the wrong side to conceal the raw edges (leaving a 1/8 inch seam allowance).
This is how it looks on the right side.
Let's try this on our doll.
It fits perfectly. Let's attach the other sleeve.
Right side of the top and sleeve.
Wrong side of the top and sleeve. No raw edges are to be seen.
3. Finish the neckline by attaching bias tape.
Take a 1 inch wide bias fabric with length a little more than the length of the neckline.
Fold both sides of the button extensions by 1/4 inch and then by 1/2 inch. Press well to keep the folds.
Pin the bias fabric to the neckline leaving half an inch trail of the bias fabric at both edges of the neckline. Make sure you have the button extension folded in by 1/4 inch.
Sew the bias fabric to the neckline leaving a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Trim and clip the seam allowance for a nice and smooth edge and to reduce bulk.
Fold the bias fabric's widthwise edge at the button extension to the wrong side by 1/4 inch.
Now fold the bias fabric lengthwise by half to the wrong side, and then fold again to bring it fully to the wrong side. Sew along the folded edge. I hemmed by hand for a nicer finish.
Now fold the button extension by 1/2 an inch to the wrong side using the fold that you pressed already and sew along the folded edge.
4. Finish the sides using the same French seam method.
5. Finish the hemline.
And the top is ready!
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