DIY Embroidered Cottage Core Hair Bows (with Free PDF Sewing Pattern)

A handmade embroidered hair bow adds a touch of charm and elegance to any outfit. In this tutorial, I’ll walk you through making your own cottage core bows (two variations-- a simple bow and a bow with long ties), from fabric selection and pattern creation to embroidery and sewing.

Bring a touch of storybook charm to your hairstyle with these handcrafted embroidered hair bows. 

Perfect for braids, ponytails, or clipped at the side, these bows blend vintage elegance with handmade warmth. Whether you’re wandering through a garden, dressing up for a picnic, or simply adding a dreamy accent to everyday outfits, an embroidered cottage core bow is the perfect finishing touch.

It's lightweight and comfortable – easy to wear all day.

It has a timeless style – pairs beautifully with dresses, skirts, and cosy knitwear.

A sweet accessory for lovers of slow, handmade fashion.

Supplies You’ll Need

* Fabric: Medium-weight cotton, linen, or cotton-blend canvas (approx. ¼ yard)

* Embroidery floss: Colors of your choice (DMC or Anchor work well)

* Embroidery hoop: 5–6 inch size is ideal

* Embroidery needles: Sharp, with a medium eye

* Water-soluble fabric marker or heat-erasable pen

* Fabric scissors or rotary cutter

* Pins or sewing clips

* Sewing machine (or hand sewing needle for small finishes)

* Iron and ironing board

* Hair clip or elastic band (optional for finishing)

Pattern Creation

1. Bow base: Draw two rectangles 5" × 3" (for the bow loops).

2. Tails: Draw two rectangles 14" × 3". Cut the ends into curved shape for a classic ribbon look.

3. Center knot: Draw a small rectangle 2.5" × 2".

4. Add ½" seam allowance all around.

5. Download link for the free PDF hair bow pattern is at the end of this blogpost. 👇

Embroidery Preparation

1. Trace 1 bow piece and 1 tail piece onto the fabric for embroidering, and then secure the fabric in the embroidery hoop. Trace and and cut out the other pieces of bow and tail, as well as the center piece, and keep them aside.

2. Using your favourite transferring method, tranfer your embroidery designs onto the bow base and tails.

3. Place fabric with the designs in your embroidery hoop.

4. Choose stitches as you like, and finish the embroidery.

👉 Tip: Keep your embroidery within 1/2" of the seam edges so the design is visible after sewing.

Sewing Tutorial

1. Cut fabric: Once embroidered, cut out your bow, tail, and knot pieces.

2. Sew bow base:

   * Sew the two rectangle, right sides together, leaving a 1 1/2 inch opening at the center of the longer lower edge.   

   * Turn right-side out, close the opening by whip stitching it, and press.

* Thread a needle and pass it through the center of the bow  pieces, starting at the bottom edge and coming out at the top edge. Form accordion pleats as you stitch, then wrap the thread several times tightly around the centre to secure the gathers in place.”

3. Sew tails:

   * Place two tail pieces right sides together.

   * Sew around edges, leaving a 1 1/2 inch opening at the center of the top edge.

   * Clip corners, turn right-side out, close the opening by whip stitching it, and press.

    * Thread a needle and pass it through the center of the bow’s tail pieces, starting at the bottom edge and coming out at the top edge. Form accordion pleats as you stitch, then wrap the thread several times tightly around the centre to secure the gathers in place.

4. Sew knot piece:

   

   * Fold down the short edges of the small rectangle by 1/2 inch and sew along the folded edge.

   * Fold lengthwise, right sides together.

   * Sew along the long edge, turn right-side out, and press.

5. Assemble:

   * Fold bow base into loops (ends overlapping at the center).

   * Layer tails below the bow.

   * Wrap knot piece around center and hand-stitch or machine-stitch securely.

   * Attach to a clip or elastic band if desired.

Attaching the Bow to a Hair Clip

1. Choose the clip

   • Alligator clip (great for everyday wear, easy to slip in).

   • French barrette (more secure for thicker hair).

2. Wrap the bow center

   • Keep your bow’s middle “knot” piece (the small fabric strip you used to cinch the bow).

   • Before stitching it down completely, slide the clip underneath.

3. Secure by stitching or glue

   • Hand-sew through the fabric and clip holes (if using a barrette).

   • Or, apply a strong fabric glue or hot glue directly onto the flat part of the clip, then press the bow in place. Hold until set.

Attaching the Bow to a Hair Elastic

1. Make a loop in the center piece

   • When wrapping the small fabric strip around the bow’s center, slide the elastic band into place.

   • The strip should enclose both the bow and the elastic.

2. Sew securely

   • Overlap the ends of the center strip tightly and hand-sew the ends, ensuring the elastic is trapped inside.

   • Reinforce with a few extra stitches so it won’t pull loose.

3. Optional reinforcement

   • Add a dab of fabric glue or hot glue for extra durability, especially if the bow will be worn often.

✨ You’ve now created a gorgeous embroidered bow with ties! Perfect for gifts, everyday wear, or special occasions.

Finishing Touches

* Press gently with a warm iron (avoid ironing directly on embroidery).

* Trim loose threads.

* Add fabric stiffener for extra structure.

Variations

* Use velvet or satin for a dressy look.

* Try monogram embroidery for personalization.

* Add beads or sequins for sparkle.

Download Link:

👉 Cottage Core Hair Bow Free PDF Pattern

Happy Sewing!

---Flora

Tiered Skirt Sewing Tutorial

A flowy, tiered skirt is one of those timeless pieces every sewist loves to make. Comfortable, flattering, and endlessly versatile — it’s perfect for everyday wear, layering, or dressing up with romantic details. 

This sewing tutorial shows you step by step how to sew your own beautiful, flowy skirt — perfect for twirling the day away.

And yes, this skirt fits beautifully into the dreamy cottagecore aesthetic — think: twirling through meadows, sipping tea in the garden, or strolling to the farmer’s market with a woven basket. 

Supplies You’ll Need to Make the 3-Tiered Skirt

Supplies You’ll Need to Make the 3-Tiered Skirt

* Fabric – 3 to 5.5 yards depending on waist size (see chart below)

* 1.5" wide elastic:  length = waist measurement

* Thread – matching or contrasting, all-purpose polyester or cotton

* Sewing machine – with straight and zig-zag stitch * Serger (if available)

* Fabric scissors or rotary cutter

* Pins or sewing clips – to hold gathers and seams in place

* Measuring tape – for waist measurement and cutting lengths

* Iron & ironing board – for pressing seams and hem

* Chalk or fabric marker – to mark cutting lines and notches

* Optional:

* Lightweight fusible interfacing (if you want a sturdier waistband)

* Extra fabric for side seam pockets

* Ruler or quilting ruler (for cutting straight edges)

Fabric Choice

This skirt works best with lightweight to medium-weight fabrics that drape nicely:

* Cotton lawn or cotton voile – breathable and soft for summer.

* Linen blends – give structure but still flowy and breezy.

* Rayon challis or viscose – creates beautiful movement.

* Lightweight chambray – casual and perfect for everyday wear.

Tip: For a more cottagecore look, try soft florals, gingham, earthy solids, or delicate prints.

Fabric Requirements by Size

This skirt is based on waist sizes 26–60 inches and includes generous gathers for each tier. Yardage assumes 44" wide fabric. If using wider fabric (54"–60"), you may need slightly less.

👉 Add an **extra ½ yard** if you want:

* To lengthen the skirt

* To cut the waistband on the fold

* To add pockets

Sewing Tutorial: Step-by-Step

1. Cut Your Pieces

* Waistband: A rectangle the length of your hip measurement + 1 inch ease + 1" for seam allowance, and 4.5" wide. 

The elastic inside will be cut to your waist size so it fits comfortably once worn, but the fabric waistband needs that extra width so it can slide over the hips easily when the elastic is expanded.

Let's see how to determine the length (height) of each tier:

If you want each tier to be of same length (height) then, measure the total length of your skirt and divide it by three to find the length (height) of each tier.

For example, if the total length you desire for the skirt is 30 inches, then 30/3 = 10 inches. This is the length (height) of each tier. 

However, if you want each tier to be a bit longer than the previous one, adjust the tier lengths accordingly.

For example, if each tier length is 10 inches, then adjust the lengths as below:

Tier 1 : 7 inches

Tier 2: 10 inches

Tier 3: 13 inches

Let's determine the width of each tier and also add seam allowances them.

* Tier 1 (Top Tier): 

Width: 2 × waist measurement 

Length: Desired length + 1/2 inch for top edge seam allowance and 1/2 inch for bottom edge seam allowance

* Tier 2 (Middle Tier): 

Width: 3 × waist measurement 

Length: Desired length + 1/2 inch for top edge seam allowance and 1/2 inch for bottom edge seam allowance

* Tier 3 (Bottom Tier): 

Width: 4 × waist measurement 

Length: Desired length + 1/2 inch for top edge seam allowance + 3/4 inch for bottom edge hem allowance.

(*If you don't prefer to attach a separate waist band for the elastic casing, but like to fold the top edge of Tier 1 to create the casing, then you should add 4 inches to Tier 1. 

* Tier 1 (Top Tier): 

Length: Desired length + 4 inches added to the top edge for elastic casing and 1/2 inch added to the bottom edge for seam allowance

* Tier 2  and Tier 3 remain the same.)

2. Sew the Tier Seams

* Sew the short sides of each tier rectangle together (1/2 inch seam allowance) to form loops. 

* Sew the seams of the waistband together. 

* Finish raw edges with zig-zag or serger.

3. Sew the hem of the Bottom Tier (Tier 3)

Fold the hemline down 1/4 inch. Press all around. Then fold again 1/2 inch. Press again and sew closer to the folded edge.

3. Gather Each Tier

* Run two rows of long basting stitches along the top edge of Tier 1, Tier 2, and Tier 3.

* Gently pull threads to gather until they match the width of the tier above. For Tier 1, the gathered top edge should match the bottom edge of the waistband (after the side seams of the waistband are closed).

4. Assemble the Skirt

* Attach Tier 2 to Tier 1 (right sides together), easing gathers evenly.

* Attach Tier 3 to Tier 2 the same way. Press seams downward.

* Finish raw edges with zig-zag or serger.

5. Add the Waistband

* Fold the top and bottom edges of the waistband 1/2 inch and press.

* Fold the waistband in half lengthwise (wrong sides together) and press.

* Sew the waistband to the top edge of Tier 1, leaving a 2" gap to insert the elastic.

* Insert elastic. Overlap the ends of the elastic by 1/2 inch. Secure them, and then close the gap.

(If you are not using a separate waist band, then fold the top edge of Tier 1 down by 1/2 inch. Fold down again by 1 3/4 inch. Sew close to the folded edge leaving a 2 inch gap. Insert the elastic as explained before.)

And that’s it! You have a beautiful, swishy, tiered skirt.

Cottagecore Fashion and the Tiered Skirt

Cottagecore embraces the romantic, nostalgic aesthetic of rural life — cozy days, simple living, wildflowers, and handmade garments. The tiered skirt fits perfectly within this style: it’s feminine, floaty, and versatile enough to wear with a ruffled blouse, chunky knit cardigan, or even barefoot in the grass. 🌸

By making your own, you not only embrace slow fashion but also infuse your wardrobe with a garment that feels authentic, dreamy, and truly yours.

This 3-tiered skirt pattern is perfect for beginners who want a fun, confidence-boosting project, as well as experienced sewists looking for a timeless addition to their handmade wardrobe. With its size-inclusive design and endless fabric options, you’ll want to make more than one!

Happy Sewing!

---Flora

Women's Reversible Vest with Tie Strings--Free PDF Sewing Pattern and Sewing Tutorial

 

Looking for a quick, beginner-friendly layering piece to add a handmade touch to your wardrobe? This Women’s Tie Front Vest is the perfect project! Light, breezy, and reversible, it’s ideal for wearing over dresses, tees, and even turtlenecks as seasons change.

This vest pattern is available as a free PDF in bust sizes 30–44 inches (XS–XXL), ensuring you can sew a comfortable fit just for you. The gentle curved front, sweet tie closure, and simple lines make it a timeless piece you’ll reach for again and again.

Best of all, this vest is fully reversible! Choose a pretty floral cotton on one side and a classic stripe or solid on the other for two looks in one. You can play with your favorite prints and colors, adding contrast bias binding for that extra pop. 

If you’re new to garment sewing, this project is a fantastic confidence builder, letting you practice neat bias finishing and reversible construction without complicated closures. Pair it with jeans for everyday wear or throw it over a dress for an effortless layered look.

Ready to stitch your own reversible vest? Download the free PDF sewing pattern and step into your sewing space with excitement!

Click the link below to browse all the free PDF sewing patterns for women:

Free PDF Sewing Patterns for Women

Click the link below to browse all the free PDF sewing patterns for kids:

Free PDF Sewing Patterns for Kids

Click the link below to see the complete list of Free PDF Sewing Patterns for 18-Inch Dolls:

18-Inch Doll Clothes Free PDF Sewing Patterns

 

*This post contains affiliate links, which means I make a small commission at no extra cost to you. 

Sewing Supplies Needed:

1. Fabric 

2. Free printable PDF sewing pattern (pattern link is given below)

3. Printer paper

4. Sewing machine (I am using Janome and Bernina. Both are excellent sewing machines. Brother is equally good too. I have heard good reviews about it.)

5. Sewing machine thread (I prefer using Gütermann and Coats, which are of great quality.)

6. Tape measure

7. Sewing pins

8. Serger (I am using Brother M343D, which works great.)

This is the measurement chart I used to create this pattern. Please select your pattern size according to your bust size. 

Download link:

Click here to download the women's reversible vest free PDF sewing pattern.

How to Print and Assemble the PDF Pattern Pages:

Click here to learn how to print and assemble the PDF pattern pages.

Pattern Assembly:

The diagram below is given as a guide to assemble the pattern pages. There are 8 pages in the pattern PDF. And these pages are arranged as shown in the diagram.

Seam Allowance:

Seam allowance is included in the pattern, which is 1/2 inch all around.

*Note: This pattern includes approximately 3 inches of ease around the bust line. However, if you have a fuller bust or plan to make a quilted vest, consider adding ¾ inch or more to each side seam of both the front and back pieces. Additionally, if you intend to wear the vest over a shirt or top made of heavier fabric, you may wish to lower the armhole by about an inch—or adjust it further based on your preference.

Fabric Requirement for the Reversible Tie Front Vest

Recommended Fabric:

Light to medium-weight cotton, linen, cotton lawn, lightweight denim, chambray, or rayon blends.

Fabric Requirement Chart:

Here is the fabric requirement chart for the reversible tie front vest (XS–XXL) in both metres and yards, for main fabric and lining.

Additional Notes:

✅ If you wish to make your own bias tape for armholes and neckline, add 0.25 m (0.3 yd) extra of either fabric for bias strips.
✅ Fabric widths assumed: 44–60 inches (112–150 cm).
✅ If using directional prints, consider adding 0.1 m (0.1 yd) for pattern matching.
✅ You can use the same fabric for the main and lining for a single-sided vest if desired.

How to cut the fabric pieces?

Main fabric -- 2 front pieces mirroring each other

Main fabric -- 1 back piece cut on fold

Lining fabric -- 2 front pieces mirroring each other

Lining fabric -- 1 back piece cut on fold

Recommended Tie Dimensions

Width (before folding/sewing)

• 2 inches
  This finishes to about 3/4 inch once sewn and turned, which looks clean and proportional on most body sizes. (you can increase the width, if you prefer a wider tie)

Length (per tie)

This depends on how dramatic you want the bow to be. Here are reliable ranges:

Standard bow (most common)

• 18–22 inches (46–56 cm) per tie

Long, drapey bow

• 24–30 inches (61–76 cm) per tie

Short, minimal tie (knot only, no bow)

• 12–14 inches (30–36 cm) per tie

---

How to choose the right length for your vest

Think about:

• Bust size: Larger busts need slightly longer ties to reach around the curve comfortably.
• Fabric thickness: Thicker fabrics = longer ties for a graceful bow.
• Styling preference:
  • Soft, romantic bow → longer
  • Clean, modern knot → shorter

For this reversible vest pattern, each tie can be:

22 inches long × 2 inches wide (cut)

This finishes to a 3/4-inch-wide tie with enough length for a pretty bow on all sizes.

How to Make the Vest Ties -- The Tube Method 

(Assuming you’re making a finished tie about 3/4 inch wide and 18–22 inches long)

1. Cut your tie pieces

• Cut two rectangles per tie.
  Example:
• 2 inches wide × desired length (e.g., 22 inches).
• If your fabric is thin, you can cut one long strip and fold it instead.

 

2. Fold right sides together

• Fold the strip lengthwise, right sides touching.
• You now have a long skinny rectangle.

3. Sew the long edge

• Stitch with a ¼ inch seam allowance.
• Leave both short ends open.

4. Turn the tube right‑side out

• Use a turning tool, safety pin, or chopstick.
• Press the tie flat so the seam runs along one edge.

5. Finish one end of the short edge

You have three options:

Option 1 — Straight end

• Fold the raw edges inside by ¼ inch.
• Press and topstitch.

Option 2 — Straight end (prettier for bows)

• Before turning the tube, sew the short end with a ¼ inch seam allowance, trim, then turn.
• Press and topstitch if desired.

Option 3 — Angled end (prettier for bows)

• Before turning the tube, sew the short end at a 45° angle, trim, then turn.
• Press and topstitch if desired.

Sewing the Vest:

• Join the shoulders of outer and lining--Join the shoulders of the front and back pieces of the main and lining fabric.

Press open the shoulder seams.

• With right sides of the main and lining facing sew the armholes, neckline, and the center front upto the hemline where it curves.

Sandwich the ties at this point, as shown in the image, if you prefer not to add in the bias tape around the center front and neckline.

• Clip curves, turn right side out, and press neatly.

This is how it should look now.

• Match and sew the side seams for both layers.

With the main fabric front and back pieces together and lining fabric front and back pieces together, pin the side seams of the top and sew in one continuous seam on each side.

In the above image, you see the back pieces. The front pieces are aligned underneath the corresponding back pieces.

• With right sides facing, sew around the hemline, starting from one curved edge to the other curved edge, leaving a small opening in between. 

• Turn the vest inside out through the opening, and close that gap by hand sing a slip stitch or ladder stitch for a super neat, nearly invisible finish on the outside.
• Add the front ties.
• Attach bias binding around armholes, neckline, center front, and hemline.

Finishing:

• Press the vest.

• Optional topstitching for neatness.

I have provided a reversible bolero vest sewing tutorial for 18 inch dolls here with free PDF sewing pattern. Do check it out.

If you are looking for more free sewing patterns,

click on this link Free Sewing Patterns Page. 

Click the links below to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

You will find these link also at the top of this blog page (under the blog title).

Happy sewing!

---Flora