Reversible Wrap Top

I made a reversible wrap top today following the tutorial on the Birch Fabrics blog by the talented Jess of Craftiness Is Not Optional (one of my favorite sewing blogs).

It's an adorable top and I liked the pattern very much. It was easy to make, as the tutorial was easy to understand.

Check out Jess's web site for more fabulous tutorials and patterns. Also don't forget to check out the Birch Fabrics blog. They have posted some amazing tutorials, and their fabric collection looks great.

 You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to have a browse through the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Kids Clothes Week Challenge

I have signed up for the Kids Clothes Week Summer Challenge--July 15-21, 2013 and made four outfits for my daughter. Two tops, a skirt, and a dress.

I aimed for seven outfits, one for each day, but was able to finish only four. However, I am happy that I could make at least four. I always have one reason or the other to actually sit in front of my sewing machine and do some work. But this time I can't excuse myself. My thanks to Meg for hosting the KCWC and motivating sewists all around the world.

Here are the photos of the four outfits I made:

1. A-line skirt:

Click here to download the free PDF sewing pattern and sewing tutorial to make this skirt.


2. Summer top:

I am yet to sew the buttons.

Click here to download the free PDF sewing pattern and sewing tutorial to make this top.

3. Lace top:

4. Flounce neck dress:

You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to have a browse through the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

How to Draft a Kameez (Kurta)?

Image Source: www.kurtapajamadesigns2013.blogspot.in

A kameez (also called kurta) is a long tunic worn usually with a salwar (also called pajama pants) and a dupatta (also called stole or shawl or scarf). The pattern draft provided here is for a simple dartless, medium-fit kameez as in the photo above.




Measurements needed:

1. Kameez length
2. Bust round
3. Waist round
4. Hip round
5. Waist length
6. Hip length
7. Shoulder (shoulder tip to shoulder tip)
8. Neck depth
9. Shoulder width (Take this measurement from shoulder tip toward the neck. This may vary according to how close or broad you want your neck to be. Mine is 2.5 inches)
10. Sleeve length
11. Sleeve hemline circumference

I have posted a free kameez (kurta) sewing pattern for women in sizes XS to XXL HERE. I have provided the download link and other details in that post. You just have to download the A4 pattern pieces for your size, assemble them, trace or cut out your size, and use it to make your kurta. It's a semi-fitted straight kurta with short sleeves. Hope you may find it helpful.

Also, check the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

If you would like to draft your own kameez for your body measurements, please follow this tutorial:

 

A to B = Kameez length
A to C = Front neck depth
A to E = Shoulder (shoulder tip to shoulder tip) divided by 2
Draw a vertical line from E and mark point I where this line meets GH.
E to F = 0.75 inch

F to D = Kameez shoulder width
A to G = 1/8 chest + 2.5 inches or scye depth
G to H = 1/4 chest + 1 inch ease

Mark L 1 inch from I.
J is midpoint of FL.
Mark K 0.5 inch from J.
Join HLKF to create the front arm curve.
A to M = Waist length
M to N = 1/4 waist + 0.5 inch ease
A to O = Hip length
O to P = 1/4 hip + 0.75 inch ease
B to Q = 1/4 hip + 1.5 inches
Shape side HNPQ.

A to B = Kameez length
A to C = Front neck depth
A to E = Shoulder (shoulder tip to shoulder tip) divided by 2
A to G = 1/8 chest + 2.5 inches or scye depth
G to H = 1/4 chest + 1 inch ease
Draw a vertical line from E.E to F = 0.75 inch
F to D = Kameez shoulder width (This should be equal to that of kameez front)
A to I = Waist length
I to J = 1/4 waist + 0.5 inch ease
A to K = Hip length
K to L = 1/4 hip + 0.75 inch ease
B to M = 1/4 hip + 1.5 inches
Shape side HJLM.

Seam allowances for front and back of the kameez:
0.5 inch on the sides
1.5 inch for hem
0.375 inch on the armhole, neckline, and shoulders





Sleeve:

 
A to B = B to C = 1/8  chest + 2.5 inches
B to E = Sleeve length = A to D = C to F
D to E = A to B
E to F = B to C
A to G = C to H = 1/8 chest
B to I = B to J = 1 inch
Join HJ and GI.
K is midpoint of HJ.
K to L = 0.5 inch
Shape front armhole HLJB.
M is midpoint of GI.
M to N = 0.5 inch
O is midpoint of GM.
P is midpoint of MI.
P to Q = 0.625 inch
Shape back armhole GONQIB.
E to R = E to S = half sleeve round + 0.5 inch ease
Join GR and HS

Seam allowances:
0.5 inch on the sides
1.5 inch for hem
0.375 inch around the sleeve cap.

You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog.

Click the below links to have a browse through the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Detailed Tutorial---How to Sew a Pinafore Dress

Using the pattern draft I have posted here, cut the pattern pieces. I lined the straps, body, and yoke, because I used a lightweight fabric for the main pieces. 

Straps (main and lining)

Yoke pieces (front and back, main and lining)

Body pieces (front and back)

    Main Fabric

    Lining Fabric

Ruffles

1. Prepare the straps:

Place the main and lining fabric of the strap with wrong sides facing, fold them in half lengthwise with the right sides of the main fabric meeting together, and join the raw edges with a 0.25-inch seam allowance. Turn it inside out, and here you have the strap. Move the seam to the middle and press.

2. Attach straps to the yoke pieces:

With wrong sides facing, place the straps on the yoke lining piece leaving 0.5 inch at both corners of the lining piece (circled in the image below).

Place the main fabric of the yoke above this with its wrong side down.

Pin the arm curves and the top side of the main and lining pieces (see image below). Make sure you  catch the straps as well with the pins.

Stitch them in place.

Repeat the step for the back yoke.

Turn them inside out, and the yoke part of the dress is ready.

3. Attach the body pieces:

Attach the body lining piece to the yoke lining piece, and the body main piece to the yoke main piece (front and back).

4. Join the body pieces:

Before joining the body pieces, I wanted to decorate the front piece. However, this is optional. I made a strip and attached it across the front piece and added on some fabric flowers. To prepare the strip, take a 2-inch-wide fabric. For length, measure across the body piece where you need to attach the strip.

Fold the edges (0.5 inch from both sides) toward the center. Fold again and join the open sides.

Pin the strip to the front main piece.

Once you are happy with the positioning, topstitch both edges of the strip.


Join the sides.

Sew on some fabric flowers in the center.

Serge the bottom hemline.

5. Sew the ruffles and attach it to the dress:

With right sides facing, join the ruffle edges widthwise, and then fold down 0.25 inch of the bottom edge. fold again and hem.

Here you see the ruffle fabric with the finished hemline.

Serge the top edge. I hand-rolled it. Now, to make ruffles, set your machine to the largest stitch. Sew two straight rows of stitches leaving at least 8 inches of thread at the beginning and end.

Gather the fabric by gently pulling the extra thread you left.

Gather the entire top edge of the fabric to match the circumference of the dress' bottom hemline.

Pin the ruffles 0.25 inch above the dress' hemline.

Sew the ruffles in place, removing the pins as you go.

Now you have a lovely pinafore dress. This dress can be worn over a matching top and leggings during winter or worn alone during summer. This is fourth in my me-made spring-summer dress series.

If you do make a pinafore dress using this tutorial, feel free to send me a picture of it. You can find my e-mail address at the end of the "About Me' section on the right column of my blog. I would be happy to share the picture on my blog.

I will soon meet you all with yet another tutorial.

I have posted a free PDF  printable sewing pattern of this dress in kids' size 1 year at this link. Please check.

You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to have a browse through the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Jumper (Pinafore) Dress Pattern Draft

Earlier, I had posted a tutorial on how to sew a jumper (pinafore) dress, but I didn't have the pattern draft ready at that time. I drafted the pattern today, and I will show you how to do it.

Measurements needed for this dress are:

1. Length of the dress---from the highest point of the shoulder (close to the neck) down to where you want to have the hemline)
2. Shoulder (length between two shoulder points--from shoulder tip to shoulder tip)
3. Bust
4. Neck depth

There are 4 pattern pieces in this pattern:

1. Straps
2. Yoke or chest piece
3. Body
4. Ruffles (optional)




Let's draft the pattern: A-B = length of the dress
A-D = Shoulder/2 minus 1/2"
D-C = 1.5"
A-E = neck depth
Square out from E.
E-F = A-D
A-H =  1/4 bust
H-I = 1/4 bust + 3/4 inch ease
Draw a curved line from I to F to shape the armhole.
O-I = H-N = 1 inch
Join N-O.
B-J = 1/4 chest + 2"
Join I and J.

This is your basic pinafore pattern.

If you want to add ruffles at the bottom (I wanted to add it) in a contrast fabric, you should subtract the width of the ruffle from the length of the dress (I kept the ruffle width 5 inches for the dress I made).

In the pattern, B to K marks the ruffle width. Square out from K and mark L where the line meets I-J.
L-M = 3/4 inch. Draw a curved line from M to shape the hemline of the body of the dress.

Now we are going to separate the pattern pieces and add seam allowances.

Discard the ruffle piece from the pattern draft above and create a new one with the same width, but length twice as that of BJ.

Add 0.25 inch seam allowances on all the sides except for the sides and for the hem of the ruffle piece for which it should be 0.5 inch.

(Note: Measure CGE and multiply it by 4. Let us call this the neckline measurement. Now measure your kid's head circumference. Compare this with the neckline measurement. If the neckline measurement is less than the head circumference, then you can either reduce the width of the straps, or you can make a slit at the center back and sew button flaps. You can also sew buttonholes on the front end of the straps and sew buttons onto the front yoke piece.)

I have already posted the sewing tutorial here. But I felt there are fewer photos in that tutorial which might make it hard to understand. Therefore, I will post a new tutorial as early as possible. This will be a little different from the previous one I shared.

You can find the detailed how-to-sew tutorial here.

I have posted a free PDF  printable sewing pattern of this dress in kids' size 1 year at this link. Please check.

You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. You can download and use them to create your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials