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Tuesday, August 29, 2023

Sleeveless A-Line Summer Top---Sewing Tutorial with Free PDF Sewing Pattern for 18-Inch Dolls




Today what I have for you is an A-line top free PDF printable sewing pattern for an 18-inch doll. It's so simple and easy that even a beginner can make it.



Download link to the free PDF pattern is given below.




The measurements of the doll I used are

Chest 11.5 inches
Waist 11 inches
Hip 11.75 inches

This top will fit 18-inch dolls such as the American Girl® Doll and Our Generation® Doll and dolls with similar body measurements.

How to Sew the Top?

Sewing a sleeveless A-line top for an 18-inch doll can be a fun and rewarding project! Here's a step-by-step guide:


Materials Needed:


Cotton or lightweight fabric (scraps work well)


Coordinating thread


Sewing machine or needle for hand sewing


Scissors


Pins or fabric clips


Paper for the pattern


Velcro or snaps for closure





Suggested fabrics and fabric measurements:

A 9 x 15-inch (23 x 38-cm) fabric or a 17.5 x 7-inch (45 x 18-cm) fabric is enough to make this 18-inch doll top. 


You can use any kind of lightweight fabrics to make this top, such as quilting cotton, gingham, linen, seersucker, etc. 



---


Steps:


1. Download the Free PDF Pattern


Pattern link:

18-inch doll free PDF printable A-line top sewing pattern 


How to Print?

This is a two-page PDF file. 

Print the page on an A4 paper. Make sure you have set page sizing to "Actual size" before you print the pattern. 

You can measure the 1 inch x 1 inch square in the pattern page to check whether the page has printed correctly.




Seam allowances:

Seam allowances are included in the pattern, which is 0.25 inch for the neckline, shoulder, and armhole, 0.75 inch for the hemline, and 0.50 inch for the side seams.


2. Cut the Fabric


Fold your fabric in half, pin your pattern pieces, and cut:


1 front piece on the fold.


2 back pieces.




3. Sew the Shoulder Seams


Place the front piece and back pieces right sides together.


Sew the shoulder seams using a ¼-inch seam allowance.


Press the seams open.






4. Finish the Armholes and Neckline



Cut narrow bias strips of fabric.


Pin the tape around the armholes and neckline, sew it down, fold to the inside, and stitch in place.


5. Sew the Side Seams


With right sides together, sew the side seams.



6. Hem the Bottom Edge


Fold the bottom edge under 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch again to create a hem. Sew close to the folded edge.



 

For your easy reference, I have organized my blog posts under the following sections. Hope it's useful to you:




These links appear at the top of my blog as well.

Happy sewing!  

---Flora


How to Draft a Simple and Easy A-Line Top?




Today we will see how to draft a simple A-line top. We have already used this draft when we drafted the summer top pattern. We will see it in detail here so that you will easily understand.

You will need the following measurements to draft this top:

1. Full length of the top

2. Bust round

3. Shoulder width

4. Arm hole depth or scye depth

5. Front neck depth

6. Back neck depth





How to Draft:





A to B = full length of the top, from shoulder point at neck to the desired length (the top's length ends between the waist and hip or at the hip.)

A to C = shoulder width/2

B to D = 1/4 bust + 2 inches for kids (4 inches for ladies) [1/4 chest + 5.08 cms for kids (10.16 cms for ladies). You can add some extra inches if you want more flare at the hemline.]

A to F = C to E = 1/4 bust - 1 (or) scye depth (both the measurements will be more or less the same). (As this is a loose-fitting top worn in summer, you can lower down the armhole depth under the arms by 0.5 inch or 0.75 inch [1.27 cms to 1.905 cms], if you prefer.)

F to G = 1/4 bust + 0.5 to 0.75 inch ease [1/4 chest + 1.27 cms to 1.905 cms ease] (Note: You can increase ease according to the type of fabric and the fit you prefer---loose-fit, medium-fit, or close-fit. For this top, I prefer to have 0.5 to 0.75 inch ease. Remember that ease defines the fit of your clothing.) 

C to H is 0.5 inch to 0.75 inch for kids and 1 inch for ladies [1.27 cms to 1.905 cms kids and 2.54 cms for ladies].

A to I is 1/12 chest or as per your preference.

Join I with H.  IH is the shoulder slope.

Measure H to E. Mark a point L on HE which is half of the H to E measurement.

L to M = 0.5 inch [1.27 cms] for kids and 0.75 inch for ladies [1.905 cms].

Draw the front arm curve and back arm curve as shown in the picture.

A to J is back neck depth (usually 1 inch [2.54 cms]).

A to K is front neck depth (usually 1/12 chest + 0.5 inch [1/12 bust + 1.27 cms]).

Square down from C. Mark O where the squared line meets B to D. 

N to D is 0.5 inch for kids (0.75 inch for women).

Shape front and back necklines.

Join NOB with a curved line. This is the hemline.

We are done with the drafting.


This is how the front and back patterns will look like:







Seam allowances:

Now, we need to add the seam allowances.

For the neckline, shoulder, and armhole let's keep 0.375 inch (0.95 cm)

For the side seams 0.5 inch (1.27 cm). You can increase this if you prefer. 

For the hemline, it is 1 inch (2.54 cm). 

This is how top's front and back pieces will look like after you cut them out from the fabric:




While sewing the top, make a slit at the back and add a loop and button at the top of the back neck for closure, as the neckline in this pattern draft will be lesser than the person's head circumference. Or you can increase the front and back neck depth in the pattern itself. Or you can add button and buttonhole plackets at the back. 

For example, I drafted this pattern for a 1-year-old baby. The head circumference of a 1-year-old baby is 18 inches. The neckline of this draft measures 10 inches. So, I will make a 4.25-inch slit at the back so that the top can be easily pulled over the head. Or I will attach a continuous bound placket as I have explained in the summer top sewing tutorial

 
I will soon post the sewing tutorial for this top.

If you have any questions, please let me know in the comments section.

For your easy reference, I have organized my blog posts under the following sections. Hope it's useful to you:




These links appear at the top of my blog as well.

Happy sewing!

---Flora







Sunday, August 27, 2023

Elastic Waist 8-Gore Skirt Free PDF Printable Sewing Pattern for 18-Inch Dolls




I'm happy to share this new free PDF printable sewing pattern today---Elastic waist 8-gore skirt for 18-inch doll.






The measurements of the doll I used are

Chest 11.5 inches
Waist 11 inches
Hip 11.75 inches

This pattern will fit 18-inch dolls such as the American Girl® Doll and Our Generation® Doll and dolls with similar body measurements.

Click here to download the link.

Seam allowances are included in the pattern, 3/4 inch at the hemline and 3/4 inch at the waistline and 1/4 inch at the side seams of each gore. Seam lines are marked in the pattern with dashed lines.

Please note that the hem allowance is 1/2 inch not 3/4 inch as shown in the pattern.

This is a one-page pdf. 

Print the pattern page on an A4 paper. Make sure you have set page sizing to "Actual size" before you print the pattern. 

You can measure the 1 inch x 1 inch square in the pattern page to check whether the page has printed correctly.

This is how you will arrange the pattern pieces (8 gores) on the fabric to use the fabric efficiently.




You will need a 38 cm by 40 cm (15.75 inches by 15 inches) fabric to make this skirt. 

You can make it easy by folding the fabric twice (so you get 4 layers) and place the pattern pieces like in the picture below, and cut the pieces all at the same time.




I have shown here how to join the 8 gore pieces to make the skirt.







There is no separate waist band in this pattern. You have to fold the waistline by 0.25 inch and then again by 0.50 inch, and sew over the folded edge leaving a small gap to feed the elastic in. Insert a 3/8-inch-wide, 9-inch-long elastic through the casing, and overlap the ends of the elastic by 1/2 inch and sew them together. Sew the gap in the casing closed.

Then, fold the hemline by 0.25 inch, press, and then fold again by 0.5 inch, and sew along the folded edge.

And that's it! You have made a beautiful skirt to add to your doll's wardrobe!

A detailed step-by-step tutorial with pictures is given at this link



I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.


You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.




These links appear at the top of my blog on the navigation bar as well.

Happy sewing!  

---Flora








Saturday, August 26, 2023

Reversible Bolero Vest Free PDF Printable Sewing Pattern for 18-Inch Dolls




Today I have uploaded a free DF printable sewing pattern for the reversible bolero vest for 18-inch dolls.













The measurements of the doll I used are

Chest 11.5 inches
Waist 11 inches
Hip 11.75 inches

This pattern will fit 18-inch dolls such as the American Girl® Doll and Our Generation® Doll and dolls with similar body measurements.


Click here to download the pattern.

Seam allowances are included in the pattern, which is 0.25 inch all around.

This is a one-page pdf. 

Print the page on an A4 paper. Make sure you have set page sizing to "Actual size" before you print the pattern. 

You can measure the 1 inch x 1 inch square in the pattern page to check whether the page has printed correctly.

Click here to find the step-by-step sewing tutorial for making this vest.


I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.


You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the links below to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.




These links appear at the top of my blog on the navigation bar as well.

Happy sewing!  

---Flora








Thursday, August 24, 2023

Bermuda Shorts Free PDF Printable Sewing Pattern- for 18-Inch Dolls

I'm happy to share another free PDF printable sewing pattern today---Bermuda shorts for an 18-inch doll. You can alter the length as per your preference.




The measurements of the doll I used are

Chest 11.5 inches
Waist 11 inches
Hip 11.75 inches

This pattern will fit 18-inch dolls such as the American Girl® Doll and Our Generation® Doll and dolls with similar body measurements.

Click this link to download the pattern.


Seam and hem allowances:

Seam and hem allowances are included in the pattern: 

0.75 inch at the waistline and hemline

0.25 inch at the side seams, center seam (crotch seam), and inseam (leg seam)

How to print?

It's a two-page pdf.

Print the page on a A4-size papers. Make sure you have set page sizing to "Actual size" before you print the pattern. 

You can measure the 1 inch x 1 inch square in the pattern page to check whether the page has printed correctly.

How to sew?

1. Join the sides.

2. Join the crotch seams.

3. Join the leg seams.

4. Finish the hemline of each leg.

5. Create the casing at the waistline and feed in the elastic.

You have to fold the waistline by 0.25 inch and then again by 0.50 inch, and sew over the folded edge leaving a small gap to feed the elastic in. Insert a 3/8-inch-wide, 10-inch-long elastic through the casing, and overlap the ends of the elastic by 0.25 inch and sew them together. Sew the gap in the casing closed.

Then, fold the hemline of each leg by 0.25 inch and then again by 0.50 inch, and sew along the folded edge. And you are done!

Check this page for the step-by-step sewing tutorial with pictures.






If you want to create a special wardrobe for your daughter's 18-inch doll, here are some free PDF printable sewing patterns for you.

Reversible bolero vest



Full circle skirt



A-line skirt



Empire waist dress



Spiral skirt



Night pants (pajama pants)



I have posted loads of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.


You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.




These links appear at the top of my blog on the navigation bar as well.

Happy sewing!  

---Flora





Wednesday, August 23, 2023

How to Draft Bermuda Shorts for an 18-Inch Doll---Pattern Draft




Today, we will see how to draft a pair of Bermuda shorts for an 18-inch doll.

You need the following measurements to draft this pattern:

1. Full length of the shorts (from waist to the desired length) (This is usually about 5 inches for an 18-inch doll.)

2. Hip round (This is 11.75 inches for an 18-inch doll.)

3. Crotch depth (This is 3 inches for an 18-inch doll.)

Shorts front pattern draft:

A to B = full length of the shorts from the waist.

A to C is the crotch depth measurement. 

Draw horizontal lines from A, B, and C.

C to E = hip round/4 + 0.25 inch (which is 3.19 inches) (C to E is the crotch line)

A to D is same as C to E.

E to F = hip round/12 (which is 0.98 inch)

E to H = hip round/8 (which is 1.47 inches)

E to I = half of E to F + 0.10 inch (which is 0.98/2 + 0.10 = 0.59 inch)

Shape H-I-F as shown.

B to G = C to F minus 0.25 inch (which is 3.92 inches) (B to G is the hemline)

Shape inside seam F-G.


Shorts back pattern draft:


Back pattern can be drafted by using the front pattern and then adding these extra measurements: 

F to J = half of E to F = 0.49 inch

F to K = 0.25 inches

Join K and D.

K to M is same as E to H which is hip round/8 (that is, 1.47 inches).

Shape J-M  as shown.

D to L = 0.25 inch

Join A and L.

G to N = F to J = 0.49 inch

Shape inside seam N-J.


Seam allowances to be added:

Add 0.75 inch at the waistline for casing for the elastic.

Add 0.75 inch at the bottom edge of the legs for hem.

Add 0.25 inches at the side seams (if you prefer to have side seams).

Add 0.25 at the crotch curves and inseam (i.e., leg seam).

I have also posted a free PDF printable shorts sewing pattern for kids' sizes 6 to 12 years on this page on my blog and for kids' sizes 1 to 5 years  on this page on my blog. Hope it's useful for you.


I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.


You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.






    








Tuesday, August 22, 2023

Elastic Waist A-Line Skirt Free PDF Printable Sewing Pattern for 18-Inch Dolls

I have uploaded a free PDF printable sewing pattern today---Elastic waist A-line skirt for 18-inch doll, at this link. This skirt is so easy to sew and is suitable for a beginner's project. 










The measurements of the doll I used are

Chest 11.5 inches
Waist 11 inches
Hip 11.75 inches

This pattern will fit 18-inch dolls such as the American Girl® Doll and Our Generation® Doll and dolls with similar body measurements.

It's a one-page PDF document.




Seam allowances are included in the pattern itself and have been marked with dashed lines. I have mentioned the seam allowances at the bottom of the pdf page.


Print the page on an A4 paper. Make sure you have set page sizing to "Actual size" before you print the pattern. 

You can measure the 1 inch x 1 inch square in the pattern page to check whether the page has printed correctly.

There is no separate waist band in this pattern. You have to fold the waistline by 0.25 inch and then again by 0.50 inch, and sew over the folded edge leaving a small gap to feed the elastic in. Insert a 0.50-inch-wide, 11.5-inch-long elastic through the casing, and overlap the ends of the elastic by 0.25 inch and sew them together. Sew the gap in the casing closed.

Then, fold the hemline by 0.25 inch and then again by 0.50 inch, and sew along the folded edge.

Click this link to see the step-by-step sewing tutorial of this skirt.


I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.


You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.



Happy sewing!

---Flora



Friday, August 11, 2023

How to Sew a Summer Top with Yoke and Ruffled Sleeves---Method 1














Front


Back








In this method we will sew the top without using a serger. Let's see how to do it.

Step 1: Lay out the pattern pieces you have drafted using the drafting tutorial posted here.

Front and back yoke pieces cut with the outer fabric and lining fabric


Front skirt


Back skirt


Sleeves


Bias strips for armhole




Step 2: Let's start sewing.

Gather the top edge of the back and front skirts by sewing two straight lines of stitches parallel to the top edge, using the longest stitch length setting in your sewing machine. 





Leave a few inches of threads at both the ends.



Then pull the threads to gather the fabric until the top edge of the skirt part is of the same width as the bottom edge of the yoke part. Use your fingers to distribute the gathers evenly across the seam. 




Step 3: With right sides facing each other, join the top's front gathered part to the top's front yoke outer fabric and the top's back gathered part to the top's back yoke outer fabric with a 0.375-inch (0.9525-cm) seam allowance.




Step 4: Then, with right sides facing, join the shoulders of the front and back yoke outer fabrics.



And then repeat this step for the front and back yoke lining fabrics.




Step 5: We will make the ruffled sleeves now.

You can finish the hemline of the sleeves by folding it or by doing a rolled hem by hand or machine. I did the rolled hem by hand. I will soon post a tutorial on how to do rolled hem by hand.




Sew two parallel rows of stitches around the sleeve cap (the curved edge of the sleeve) (I did only one row here as I couldn't manage to sew the second row!) Use the longest stitch in your sewing machine. Leave a few inches of thread at both the ends of the sleeve cap. Pull them to create ruffles until the sleeve cap matches the top's arm hole.


With right sides facing each other, pin the sleeves to the armholes of the outer fabric and then sew them in place.








Step 6: Then place the lining fabric over this, with right side facing down. 




Match the necklines of the outer and lining yoke fabrics. Pin and sew together.



Make small slits in the neck seam allowance as shown below, to get a perfect neckline.  


Turn it inside out and press, and you have got a perfect neckline.



Step 7:  Fold the hemline of the yoke lining fabric by 0.375 inch.





Step 8: Burrito roll method to finish the armholes:

Start rolling the fabric from the left side armhole until you reach the right side armhole.



Bring up the yoke lining fabric from down.


Fold the sleeve inside and sandwich the sleeve cap in between the armholes of the yoke outer and lining fabrics. Sew them all together.


Hope you can see it clearly in the below pictures.



Turn it inside out by gently pulling out the fabric inside the roll.


The armhole will have a clean finish like this on the right side as well as on the wrong side.


Repeat these steps for the other armhole, this time rolling from the right to left. 




Now the raw edges of both the sleeve caps and the armholes till the yoke line are neatly enclosed between the yoke outer and lining fabrics by using the burrito roll method. 




Step 9: Join the sides.

Join the sides with an 0.75-inch seam allowance. 





We will now conceal the raw edges by opening the seam allowance and pressing them. 


Then fold them inward by 0.375 inch and press.



Bring the edges close together and sew along the edge to like so.


This is how your side seams look like with the raw edges hidden inside.





Step 10: Attach bias strips to the armhole under the yoke line. 

Now, we need to cover the raw edges of the armhole under the yoke line.


To do this, first take a 1.5-inch-wide bias strip. Fold one edge of the bias tape 1/4 inch inward and sew along the folded edge.  Next, we will attach the raw edge of the bias strip to the raw edge of the armhole part on the outside the main fabric under the yoke line, with a seam allowance of 3/8 inch. Fold the bias tape entirely inside and sew along the folded edge.

We need to hide both the ends of the bias strip under the yoke lining fabric before the yoke hemline is closed.

(If you don't want to use the burrito roll method for the armholes, you can finish the entire armhole using the bias strips.)

Now sew the hemline of the yoke lining fabric closed at the yoke line to conceal the raw edges of the yoke main fabric and the top's gathered front main fabric.

Step 11: Finish the hemline of the top.

Fold the hemline 0.25 inch. Then fold again 0.50 inch and sew over the folded edge.

Step 12: Insert button and buttonhole plackets at the center back of the top.

First we need to decide how long we want the slit to be.

Measure your kid's head circumference.

Then measure the front and back neckline of the top and add the measurements together. If this total neckline measurement is lesser than your kid's head circumference measurement, then decide the slit length accordingly to avoid the neckline being too tight when popping the top over the head. 

For example, my kid's head circumference is 22 inches and the front + back neckline measurement is 17.5 inches. I have kept the slit length to 7 inches (which means 7 inches on the button placket side and 7 inches on the buttonhole placket side) to easily pop it over the head and take out.







Next we will attach a continuous bound placket for adding in the buttons and buttonhole.

The placket's length is twice the slit length plus a few inches for folding at the top. Mine was 17 inches long. Width was 2 or 2.5 inches. I was running out of the fabric. So, I joined small pieces of the main fabric to get the 17-inch-long placket piece.

With the right side of the placket facing the wrong side of the slit. We will start 0.25 inch away from the top of one side of the slit and come down closer to the V point of the slit and then go up and end 0.25 inch away from the top of the other side of the slit.





Now flatten the seam, fold the outer edge of the placket to the right side of the fabric by 0.25 inch and then fold again to cover the seam line on the slit.






On the right side of the top, fold the placket inside. This is where we will sew the buttonholes.

On the left side the placket, we will sew the buttons.

Turn it to the wrong side. At the V end of the placket join the plackets diagonally like so, to keep them in place. 



Let's sew in the buttons and buttonholes.



And hurrah! We have made a new breezy summer top with a clean finish without a serger.





Happy sewing! I will see you all soon with yet another tutorial or free pattern.

I have posted lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. Browse through this page to find the patterns you are looking for. You can download and use them to make your own clothes.


You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.



---Flora






Housewarming Gifts