Tutorial---How to Draft and Sew an 8-Gore Flared Skirt

Recently I made an 8-gore flared skirt for my daughter. I am excited to share the pattern drafting and sewing tutorial for this twirly skirt.

If you want a free PDF printable pattern of this skirt in Kids' sizes 1 to 12 years, please click this link.

How to draft:

I developed this pattern from the A-line skirt draft (posted here).

The draft shows 1/4th of the entire skirt. Draw a line EF that divides the 1/4th skirt into two gore panels. Label them 1 and 2. Measure up from D at center front to a point from where flare starts (for example, 4 inches). DH = FI = CG. Draw a curvy line connecting points G, I, and H, which is parallel to the hemline.

Extend the hemline CFD on both sides. Let us add flare to the gore panel 2. Measure out from D the width of the flare (example 1.5 inches). Mark it K and connect with H. Repeat for the other side of the panel. Measure 1/8 inch (0.125 inch) from K and J and label them L and M, respectively. Join L and M. Trace panel 2 and add 1/4 inch seam allowances at the top and at the sides and add 3/4 inch hem allowance. Repeat this process for gore panel 1.

Now you have two flared gore panels.

Remember, these two panels are for the front right side. You will have to mirror these pieces to get the two panels for the front left side. And then use these four panels to cut the panels for the back of the skirt. Add seam allowances to each of these panels.




How to sew:

Use a serger or zig-zag stitch to finish the edges of each gore panel before joining. Join the front four panels with an 1/4-inch seam allowance. Open the seams and press well. Top stitch on both sides of the seams.

 
Repeat this for the back of the skirt. And join the front and back of the skirt.

Hem the bottom. Attach the waistband and insert the elastic into it (tutorial here). And you are done.

After finishing the skirt, I realized I shouldn't have used a fabric with bold prints (you can see in the image that the patterns do not match at the seams). So when you make a skirt like this, better go for solid color fabrics or fabrics with small floral prints.

You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. You can download and use them to create your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Bye for now! Have a nice day!

--- Flora

A Beautiful Handmade Gift

My mom gifted my daughter a beautiful dress she made, when she came to visit us yesterday. She made this dress using the left over fabrics from three different projects. I love the color combination in this dress which I think is a little unusual.

This is dress front:

and this is the back:

The dress has so many details. A pintucked bodice front with ruffles on both sides and golden buttons on the center, a sash cinched at the center with a golden button, ties to knot at the back, and a gathered skirt.

Thank you mom for this lovely gift.

You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. You can download and use them to create your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Tutorial---Color-Blocked Two-Tiered Flounce Skirt

I made a color-blocked tiered flounce skirt for my daughter recently. The pattern is based on the A-line skirt pattern I have posted here.

How to draft the pattern:  

To make a two-tiered flounce at the bottom of the skirt, we need to first decide the height of each tier. I kept the height for each tier 2 inches (for size 4). Let us call the upper tier, tier 1 and the lower tier, tier 2.

From the hemline of the A-line skirt, mark the height of tier 2. To do this, mark several points on DF and plot the height (e.g., 2 inches) perpendicularly from each of these points. When you connect the plotted points you will get a curve that is similar to the hemline curve. Mark it as IJ. Plot the height of tier 1 (e.g., 2 inches) from IJ and draw another curve GH to get tier 1 (similar to how you created IJ). 

   
In the graph below, the light orange section is tier 1 and the orange section is tier 2, and black is the main skirt.

   I used a connecting piece as underskirt for the tiers, whose top edge is joined with the main skirt and tier 1, and the bottom edge with tier 2. I wanted the upper part of tier 2 to be concealed under tier 1. For this, I increased the height of tier 2.

   We need to do a little bit of maths here. The height to be increased for tier 2 is one-third of the height of tier 1, and the height of the connecting piece is two-thirds of the height of tier 2.

   For example, if the height of tier 1 is 2 inches, and the height of tier 2 is also 2 inches, then the height to be added to tier 2 is: one-third of height of tier 1 (2 inches), which is 0.67 inches. Therefore, the new height of tier 2 is 2 + 0.67 = 2.67 inches.  

  The height of the connecting piece is two-thirds of the height of tier 1, which is 1.33 inches. 

  Mark the height of the connecting piece from GH. Draw the curvy line KL.  In this graph, LKDF denotes tier 2 and HGKL denotes the connecting piece.

Note: Instead of using a connecting piece, you can also use HGDF as tier 2 and join it with the main skirt along with tier 1. I didn't try this. But just an idea.

Cut out the sections.

How to draft the flounce tiers:

Take the paper pattern piece for tier 1. From the bottom edge of the pattern piece, slit at several points (at equal width) up to but not into the top edge. I hope the pictures below will help you understand how to do this. 

Spread the pattern out at equal distances and paste it onto a paper as shown.

Trace around the spread out pattern and cut the pattern out.

Now turn it back (I traced it again on another paper. You can do this if you prefer). There you have the flounce pattern. Don't forget to mark the fold side.

Repeat this process for tier 2.



Seam allowances:

Add seam allowances to all the pattern pieces. I added 3/8 inch seam allowance on all sides.



Pattern pieces:
Cut the pattern pieces from the fabric. I wanted to make a color-blocked skirt. So I used three different colors. You will need 1/4 yard of fabric in each color. Remember to cut the pattern pieces on fold.  

 

  

And now, it's time to sew the skirt!



How to sew:
Join the sides of all the pieces. Sorry, I didn't serge the raw edges as I rushed to finish off the skirt. But you please do it for a clean finish.

Open and press the seams flat in all pieces.

Zigzag or roll and hem the bottom edges of the flounce tiers. I did a rolled hem by hand.

Here are the two tiers with hems finished.

Now, we need to attach the flounce tiers to the skirt. We will start with tier 1. First, with the skirt piece upside down, place the top edge of tier 1 over the bottom edge of the skirt at a side seam with their right sides facing each other. 

Then, take the connecting piece and match the top edge of the connecting piece with the skirt and tier 1, by placing it right side down as shown in the image below. Align it's side seam as well.

Now, start pinning the three pieces. Make sure you align the other side seam too of all these pieces. 

  Once you are okay with pinning the pieces all around (if you had correctly drafted and cut your pieces, they should align perfectly without any gathering), sew the pieces together. Topstitch over the seam.

This is how your skirt will look when you are done making tier 1. 

Now, let us attach the next layer, tier 2. Place your skirt like this with tier 1 upside down.

With seams aligning properly, pin the top edge of tier 2 with the bottom edge of the connecting piece.

Sew the pieces together. Topstitch the seam.

After finishing this step, your skirt will look like this. Cute, isn't it? I love the flouncy, bouncy tiers at the bottom.

This is how the underskirt will look. The seams will not be visible outside.

 I attached a glitter ribbon trim above tier 1 to add some detail to the skirt.

There is only one step left to finish off the skirt---attaching the waistband. For the 'how to', please refer to this tutorial. 

A lovely, twirly little color-blocked skirt for your cute little one. You can also make one for yourself.

I am happy that my little one loved this skirt. 

I have linked this tutorial to the link party on Sugar Bee Crafts.

 You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. You can download and use them to create your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Enjoy sewing!

---Flora

A-Line Skirt with Elastic Waistband---Free Downloadable Pattern (Size 2T)

I am happy to share yet another pdf pattern with you---A-line skirt with elastic waistband for size 2T. You can find the pattern here.

You can find the sewing tutorial for the skirt here. Print the pattern at 100%. Do not scale. Seam allowances are included in the pattern as shown in the tutorial.

How to Print and Assemble the PDF Pattern Pages:

Click here to learn how to print and assemble the PDF pattern pages. 

Note: If you feel the skirt is lengthier for size 2T, chop off some inches to get the length you want.

Do you like this pattern? Was the skirt easy to sew? Please chime in your thoughts.

You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. You can download and use them to create your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

pattern drafting tutorials 

sewing tutorials 

Have a nice day!

--Flora

How to Draft an A-Line Skirt with Elastic Waistband?

Today I am sharing the pattern draft and sewing tutorial to make an A-line skirt with elastic waistband. Since I am using the elastic waistband, there are no darts in this pattern and also no opening for zipper or hooks.

Drafting this skirt is very easy that even a beginner can do it, as we need only two main measurements: the hip round and the skirt length. (Waist round is needed but it's just to decide the length of the elastic for the waistband.) Let's see how to draft the skirt.

We will draft the quarter part of the entire skirt (this is what we usually do when we draft sewing patterns), and then use this pattern to cut the front and back of the skirt each on a folded fabric. In the below pattern drafting image, I have shown at which side we should keep the fabric folded when we cut the patterns out.)

Measurements needed:

1. Skirt length (from waist to the length you want---this is waist to knee, in my case, minus the waistband width, which is 1.375 inch) 
2. Hip round
3. Waist round






Pattern draft:

Skirt (front and back):

A-B = hip round/4

A-C = 3/4 inch
Join B and C with a curvy line.
C-D = skirt length
D-E = hip round/4 + 3 to 4 inches (for ladies sizes, add 5 to 7 inches)

(Note: If we use the waist measurement for A-B, we won't be able to pull the skirt up as it will be too tight at the hip as there is no opening for fastenings like a zipper anywhere in the skirt. That's why we use the hip measurement. This is applicable for non-stretchy fabrics.)

E-F = 3/4 inch (for ladies, this is 1 to 1.5 inches)
Shape hemline D-F.


Waistband:

A-B = C-D = hip round

A-C = B-D = usually 3.25 inches






Add seam and hem allowances to the pattern pieces. 

(Note: The seam allowance at the bottom of the waistband should be 0.375 inch. I have wrongly marked it as 0.25 inch in the figure above. Sorry for that.)

Click this link if you are looking for a free printable PDF sewing pattern for an A-line skirt in kids' sizes 1 to 12 years.

Let's start sewing:

Cut two pieces for the skirt (for front and back) each on fold.

With right sides facing, join the sides of the skirt.

Open and press the seams flat. Serge or zigzag the edges, or trim the edges using pinking shears.

Hem the bottom of the skirt.  First, fold 1/4 inch to the wrong side and press well.

Again make an 1-inch fold, press well, and sew.

Now admire the neat hemline you have just made.

Turn the skirt inside out.

Your skirt is almost ready. All you need to do is, attach the waistband and feed the elastic into it.

Fold the waistband in half lengthwise with right sides facing, and join the raw edges leaving a 1/2 inch seam allowance.

 
Pin the lower edge of the waistband to the top edge of the skirt and sew, removing the pins as you sew around.

Trim the edges with pinking shears or serge it.

Fold the upper edge of the waistband 1/4 inch and press.

Fold down again to cover the seam and sew, leaving a 3-inch opening to insert the elastic.

Feed the elastic through the opening (length of the elastic = waist measurement - 1 inch, width = 1.25 inch).

Overlap the ends of the elastic by 0.5 inch and place a few stitches over the overlap to secure the ends of the elastic.

Sew the opening closed and that's it, you have made a cute A-line skirt.

 

See you again with yet another tutorial.

You can find lots of free PDF printable sewing patterns on this page on my blog. You can download and use them to create your own clothes.

You can also click the Free Sewing Patterns Page at the top of this blog page (under the blog title) to find more free sewing patterns.

Click the below links to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.

Pattern drafting tutorials 

Sewing tutorials 

Happy sewing!

---Flora