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Sunday, September 7, 2025

DIY Embroidered Cottage Core Hair Bows (with Free PDF Sewing Pattern)

A handmade embroidered hair bow adds a touch of charm and elegance to any outfit. In this tutorial, I’ll walk you through making your own cottage core bows (two variations-- a simple bow and a bow with long ties), from fabric selection and pattern creation to embroidery and sewing.








Bring a touch of storybook charm to your hairstyle with these handcrafted embroidered hair bows. 

Perfect for braids, ponytails, or clipped at the side, these bows blend vintage elegance with handmade warmth. Whether you’re wandering through a garden, dressing up for a picnic, or simply adding a dreamy accent to everyday outfits, an embroidered cottage core bow is the perfect finishing touch.

It's lightweight and comfortable – easy to wear all day.

It has a timeless style – pairs beautifully with dresses, skirts, and cosy knitwear.

A sweet accessory for lovers of slow, handmade fashion.


Supplies You’ll Need


* Fabric: Medium-weight cotton, linen, or cotton-blend canvas (approx. ¼ yard)

* Embroidery floss: Colors of your choice (DMC or Anchor work well)

* Embroidery hoop: 5–6 inch size is ideal

* Embroidery needles: Sharp, with a medium eye

* Water-soluble fabric marker or heat-erasable pen

* Fabric scissors or rotary cutter

* Pins or sewing clips

* Sewing machine (or hand sewing needle for small finishes)

* Iron and ironing board

* Hair clip or elastic band (optional for finishing)


Pattern Creation


1. Bow base: Draw two rectangles 5" × 3" (for the bow loops).

2. Tails: Draw two rectangles 14" × 3". Cut the ends into curved shape for a classic ribbon look.

3. Center knot: Draw a small rectangle 2.5" × 2".

4. Add ½" seam allowance all around.


Embroidery Preparation


1. Trace 1 bow piece and 1 tail piece onto the fabric for embroidering, and then secure the fabric in the embroidery hoop. Trace and and cut out the other pieces of bow and tail, as well as the center piece, and keep them aside.

2. Using your favourite transferring method, tranfer your embroidery designs onto the bow base and tails.

3. Place fabric with the designs in your embroidery hoop.

4. Choose stitches as you like, and finish the embroidery.


👉 Tip: Keep your embroidery within 1/2" of the seam edges so the design is visible after sewing.


Sewing Tutorial


1. Cut fabric: Once embroidered, cut out your bow, tail, and knot pieces.

2. Sew bow base:

   * Sew the two rectangle, right sides together, leaving a 1 1/2 inch opening at the center of the longer lower edge.   







   * Turn right-side out, close the opening by whip stitching it, and press.




* Thread a needle and pass it through the center of the bow  pieces, starting at the bottom edge and coming out at the top edge. Form accordion pleats as you stitch, then wrap the thread several times tightly around the centre to secure the gathers in place.”



3. Sew tails:

   * Place two tail pieces right sides together.


   * Sew around edges, leaving a 1 1/2 inch opening at the center of the top edge.






   * Clip corners, turn right-side out, close the opening by whip stitching it, and press.




    * Thread a needle and pass it through the center of the bow’s tail pieces, starting at the bottom edge and coming out at the top edge. Form accordion pleats as you stitch, then wrap the thread several times tightly around the centre to secure the gathers in place.


4. Sew knot piece:

   

   * Fold down the short edges of the small rectangle by 1/2 inch and sew along the folded edge.

   * Fold lengthwise, right sides together.

   * Sew along the long edge, turn right-side out, and press.

5. Assemble:

   * Fold bow base into loops (ends overlapping at the center).

   * Layer tails below the bow.

   * Wrap knot piece around center and hand-stitch or machine-stitch securely.

   * Attach to a clip or elastic band if desired.

Attaching the Bow to a Hair Clip

  1. Choose the clip

    • Alligator clip (great for everyday wear, easy to slip in).

    • French barrette (more secure for thicker hair).

  2. Wrap the bow center

    • Keep your bow’s middle “knot” piece (the small fabric strip you used to cinch the bow).

    • Before stitching it down completely, slide the clip underneath.

  3. Secure by stitching or glue

    • Hand-sew through the fabric and clip holes (if using a barrette).

    • Or, apply a strong fabric glue or hot glue directly onto the flat part of the clip, then press the bow in place. Hold until set.

Attaching the Bow to a Hair Elastic

  1. Make a loop in the center piece

    • When wrapping the small fabric strip around the bow’s center, slide the elastic band into place.

    • The strip should enclose both the bow and the elastic.

  2. Sew securely

    • Overlap the ends of the center strip tightly and hand-sew the ends, ensuring the elastic is trapped inside.

    • Reinforce with a few extra stitches so it won’t pull loose.

  3. Optional reinforcement

    • Add a dab of fabric glue or hot glue for extra durability, especially if the bow will be worn often.

✨ You’ve now created a gorgeous embroidered bow with ties! Perfect for gifts, everyday wear, or special occasions.


Finishing Touches


* Press gently with a warm iron (avoid ironing directly on embroidery).

* Trim loose threads.

* Add fabric stiffener for extra structure.


Variations


* Use velvet or satin for a dressy look.

* Try monogram embroidery for personalization.

* Add beads or sequins for sparkle.


Download Link:


👉 Cottage Core Hair Bow Free PDF Pattern


Happy Sewing!

---Flora


Wednesday, August 20, 2025

Tiered Skirt Sewing Tutorial

A flowy, tiered skirt is one of those timeless pieces every sewist loves to make. Comfortable, flattering, and endlessly versatile — it’s perfect for everyday wear, layering, or dressing up with romantic details. 

This sewing tutorial shows you step by step how to sew your own beautiful, flowy skirt — perfect for twirling the day away.




And yes, this skirt fits beautifully into the dreamy cottagecore aesthetic — think: twirling through meadows, sipping tea in the garden, or strolling to the farmer’s market with a woven basket. 




Supplies You’ll Need to Make the 3-Tiered Skirt

Supplies You’ll Need to Make the 3-Tiered Skirt

* Fabric – 3 to 5.5 yards depending on waist size (see chart below)

 

* 1.5" wide elastic – length = waist measurement or waist measurement – 1 inch

 

* Thread – matching or contrasting, all-purpose polyester or cotton

 

* Sewing machine – with straight and zig-zag stitch
* Serger (if available)

 

* Fabric scissors or rotary cutter

 

* Pins or sewing clips – to hold gathers and seams in place

 

* Measuring tape – for waist measurement and cutting lengths

 

* Iron & ironing board – for pressing seams and hem

 

* Chalk or fabric marker – to mark cutting lines and notches


* Optional:

 

  * Lightweight fusible interfacing (if you want a sturdier waistband)

 

  * Extra fabric for side seam pockets

 

  * Ruler or quilting ruler (for cutting straight edges)





Fabric Choice


This skirt works best with lightweight to medium-weight fabrics that drape nicely:

* Cotton lawn or cotton voile – breathable and soft for summer.

* Linen blends – give structure but still flowy and breezy.

* Rayon challis or viscose – creates beautiful movement.

* Lightweight chambray – casual and perfect for everyday wear.


Tip: For a more cottagecore look, try soft florals, gingham, earthy solids, or delicate prints.



Fabric Requirements by Size

This skirt is based on waist sizes 26–60 inches and includes generous gathers for each tier. Yardage assumes 44" wide fabric. If using wider fabric (54"–60"), you may need slightly less.



👉 Add an **extra ½ yard** if you want:

* To lengthen the skirt

* To cut the waistband on the fold

* To add pockets





Sewing Tutorial: Step-by-Step


1. Cut Your Pieces

* Waistband: A rectangle the length of your waist measurement + 1" seam allowance, and 5" wide.

* Tier 1 (Top Tier): 1.5 × waist measurement in width, desired length (usually 10–12").

* Tier 2 (Middle Tier): 2 × waist measurement in width, same length as Tier 1.

* Tier 3 (Bottom Tier): 2.5 × waist measurement in width, same or slightly longer than Tier 1.


2. Sew the Tier Seams


* Sew the short sides of each tier rectangle together to form loops. Finish raw edges with zig-zag or serger.


3. Gather Each Tier


* Run two rows of long basting stitches along the top edge of Tier 1, Tier 2, and Tier 3.

* Gently pull threads to gather until they match the width of the tier above. For Tier 1, the gathered top edge should match the bottom edge of the waistband (after the side seams of the waistband are closed).





4. Assemble the Skirt


* Attach Tier 2 to Tier 1 (right sides together), easing gathers evenly.

* Attach Tier 3 to Tier 2 the same way. Press seams downward.


5. Add the Waistband

* Sew the seams of the waistband together.

* Fold the top and bottom edges of the waistband 1/2 inch and press.

* Fold the waistband in half lengthwise (wrong sides together) and press.

* Sew the waistband to Tier 1, leaving a 2" gap for elastic.

* Insert elastic (waist measurement + 1" for overlap). Stitch ends of elastic securely, then close the gap.


6. Hem the Skirt


* Turn up hem ½", press, fold again, and stitch.

And that’s it! You have a beautiful, swishy, tiered skirt.





Cottagecore Fashion and the Tiered Skirt

Cottagecore embraces the romantic, nostalgic aesthetic of rural life — cozy days, simple living, wildflowers, and handmade garments. The tiered skirt fits perfectly within this style: it’s feminine, floaty, and versatile enough to wear with a ruffled blouse, chunky knit cardigan, or even barefoot in the grass. 🌸

By making your own, you not only embrace slow fashion but also infuse your wardrobe with a garment that feels authentic, dreamy, and truly yours.

This 3-tiered skirt pattern is perfect for beginners who want a fun, confidence-boosting project, as well as experienced sewists looking for a timeless addition to their handmade wardrobe. With its size-inclusive design and endless fabric options, you’ll want to make more than one!

Happy Sewing!

---Flora







Tuesday, July 8, 2025

Women's Reversible Vest with Tie Strings--Free PDF Sewing Pattern and Sewing Tutorial

 


Looking for a quick, beginner-friendly layering piece to add a handmade touch to your wardrobe? This Women’s Tie Front Vest is the perfect project! Light, breezy, and reversible, it’s ideal for wearing over dresses, tees, and even turtlenecks as seasons change.




This vest pattern is available as a free PDF in bust sizes 30–44 inches (XS–XXL), ensuring you can sew a comfortable fit just for you. The gentle curved front, sweet tie closure, and simple lines make it a timeless piece you’ll reach for again and again.




Best of all, this vest is fully reversible! Choose a pretty floral cotton on one side and a classic stripe or solid on the other for two looks in one. You can play with your favorite prints and colors, adding contrast bias binding for that extra pop. 


If you’re new to garment sewing, this project is a fantastic confidence builder, letting you practice neat bias finishing and reversible construction without complicated closures. Pair it with jeans for everyday wear or throw it over a dress for an effortless layered look.

Ready to stitch your own reversible vest? Download the free PDF sewing pattern and step into your sewing space with excitement!



Click the link below to browse all the free PDF sewing patterns for women:



Click the link below to browse all the free PDF sewing patterns for kids:


Click the link below to see the complete list of Free PDF Sewing Patterns for 18-Inch Dolls:





 











*This post contains affiliate links, which means I make a small commission at no extra cost to you. 

Sewing Supplies Needed:

1. Fabric 

2. Free printable PDF sewing pattern (pattern link is given below)

3. Printer paper

4. Sewing machine (I am using Janome and Bernina. Both are excellent sewing machines. Brother is equally good too. I have heard good reviews about it.)

5. Sewing machine thread (I prefer using Gütermann and Coats, which are of great quality.)

6. Tape measure

7. Sewing pins

8. Serger (I am using Brother M343D, which works great.)


This is the measurement chart I used to create this pattern. Please select your pattern size according to your bust size. 





Download link:


How to Print and Assemble the PDF Pattern Pages:


Please use the below diagram as a guide to assemble the pattern pages:



Pattern Assembly:

The diagram below is given as a guide to assemble the pattern pages. There are 8 pages in the pattern PDF. And these pages are arranged as shown in the diagram.









Seam Allowance:


Seam allowance is included in the pattern, which is 1/2 inch all around.

Note: This pattern includes approximately 3 inches of ease around the bust line. However, if you have a fuller bust or plan to make a quilted vest, consider adding ¾ inch or more to each side seam of both the front and back pieces. Additionally, if you intend to wear the vest over a shirt or top made of heavier fabric, you may wish to lower the armhole by about an inch—or adjust it further based on your preference.


Fabric Requirement for the Reversible Tie Front Vest


Recommended Fabric:

Light to medium-weight cotton, linen, cotton lawn, lightweight denim, chambray, or rayon blends.


Fabric Requirement Chart:

Here is the fabric requirement chart for the reversible tie front vest (XS–XXL) in both metres and yards, for main fabric and lining.





Additional Notes:

✅ If you wish to make your own bias tape for armholes and neckline, add 0.25 m (0.3 yd) extra of either fabric for bias strips.
✅ Fabric widths assumed: 44–60 inches (112–150 cm).
✅ If using directional prints, consider adding 0.1 m (0.1 yd) for pattern matching.
✅ You can use the same fabric for the main and lining for a single-sided vest if desired.

Sewing the Vest:

  1. Join the shoulders of outer and lining.

  2. Sew side seams for both layers.

  3. Place right sides together, sew around edges leaving an opening.

  4. Clip curves, turn right side out, press neatly.

  5. Edge stitch if desired for a crisp finish.

  6. Attach bias binding around armholes, neckline, and hemline.

  7. Add the front ties.

Finishing:




  • Press the vest.

  • Optional topstitching for neatness.


I have provided a reversible bolero vest sewing tutorial for 18 inch dolls here with free PDF sewing pattern. Please do check it out.



If you are looking for more free sewing patterns,
click on this link Free Sewing Patterns Page

Click the links below to browse through all the pattern drafting and sewing tutorials on my blog.



You will find these link also at the top of this blog page (under the blog title).


Happy sewing!

---Flora


Wednesday, June 25, 2025

Women's Shorts with Elasticated Waist---Free PDF Sewing Pattern and Sewing Tutorial

 






I've designed a sewing pattern for women's shorts with an elasticated waist, made to fit hip sizes from 34 to 48 inches—and I'm excited to share it with you all!


You can whip up these shorts in just 30 minutes—it’s really that simple!

I’ve made the pattern super easy to print at home on A4 or letter-sized papers.

Click the link below to browse all the free PDF sewing patterns for women:



Click the link below to browse all the free PDF sewing patterns for kids:


Click the link below to see the complete list of Free PDF Sewing Patterns for 18-Inch Dolls:


Download link for the shorts pattern

Women's shorts with elasticated waist free PDF sewing pattern---A4 size pattern pages





Pattern Assembly:

Use the below diagram as a guide to assemble the pattern pages printed on A4- or US letter-size papers.






Select the correct size according to your hip circumference measurement. 


How to Print?

Print the pages on A4-size or US letter-size papers. Make sure you have set page sizing to "Actual size" before you print the pattern.

Do not select the "Custom scale" option or the "Choose paper size by PDF page size" option.

Print Page 1 first. Measure the 1 inch x 1 inch square in this page to check whether the page has printed correctly. 

Check this tutorial on how to print and assemble the PDF pattern pages.

You can make the shorts longer or shorter by simply adding or trimming a few inches at the leg hem.

Seam and Hem allowances:

Seam and hem allowances are already included in the pattern. These are:

1 3/4 inches at the waist to make the casing for the elastic.

1/2 inch for the side seams.

3/8 inch for the crotch seam and inside leg seam (inseam).

1 1/2 inches for the bottom hem allowance.




Supplies:

1. Fabric 

2. Measuring tape

3. Matching thread

4. Elastic Width: 1 inch wide; Elastic Length: Measure your waist circumference and subtract 1 inch for a standard fit, or 2 inches if you prefer the waistband to fit more snugly.

5. Sewing machine

6. Scissors

7. Safety pin

8. Sewing pins

9. Fabric marker or pencil

10. Serger (optional)





After printing and assembling the pattern pages, trace the shorts front and back patterns on a tracing paper, and use these traced patterns to cut the patterns out from fabric. 



Now, as we have our patterns cut out from fabric, let's start sewing the shorts.





How to sew?

1. Join the sides.

Serge the side, crotch, and inseam and side seam edges of each pattern piece of the shorts. 



With right sides of the front and back fabric pieces facing, join the sides of the shorts. 


Open the seams and press them flat.



2. Sew the center seam (crotch seam).

With right sides facing, sew the center seam or crotch seam of the front together. Stop at the bottom of the crotch seam and leave the leg part open. Repeat this step for the back as well.



3. Sew the leg seam (inseam).



Join the leg seam (inseam).


Before joining the leg seams, open the crotch seams and press them flat. Make sure that the lower edge of the crotch seam remains flat while you sew the leg seam.



4. Finish the hemline of the shorts.

Fold the leg hemline 1/2 inch down the wrong side and press. 


Then fold again 1 inch down the wrong side and press.


Sew along the folded edge.


Repeat the same steps for the other leg.



5. Finish the elastic waist.

Fold the waistline 1/2 inch to the wrong side and press.



Then fold again 1 1/4 inch and press. Sew along the lower edge of the fold to create the casing for the elastic.



At the center back of the shorts, leave a gap of 2 inches in the casing to insert the elastic.



Take a 1-inch-wide elastic with length equal to the waist round of the body measurement minus 1 inch or 2 inches, according to the fit you prefer. I have marked this length on the elastic.




Pin a safety pin on one end of the elastic, and feed the elastic through the casing you just created. 


Scrunch the casing to bring the elastic from the other side. When you are back at the starting point, cut the elastic at the marking.


Match up the ends of the elastic, overlap the ends by about 1/2 inch, and sew them together using two or three rows of  zigzag stitches.



While closing the casing, insert a piece of ribbon or a tag at the center back and sew the gap closed, as the tag will help identify the back of the shorts. 



And we are done!

You have made yourself a new pair of comfy shorts!


You can find the step-by-step sewing tutorial with pictures here.






For your convenience, I’ve grouped my blog posts into the sections below—hope you find them helpful!





You’ll also find these links at the top of my blog in the navigation bar.

Happy sewing!  

---Flora