Thursday, April 11, 2013

Pinafore or Jumper Dress Pattern

Earlier, I posted a tutorial on how to sew a pinafore (jumper) dress, but I didn't have the pattern draft ready at that time. I drafted the pattern today, and here it is for you.

Measurements needed for this dress are:

1. Length of the dress (from close to the neck to the length you desire)
2. Shoulder (length between two shoulder points)
3. Bust
4. Neck depth

How to draft the pattern:

There are 4 pieces in this pattern:

1. Straps
2. Yoke or chest piece
3. Body
4. Ruffles (optional)

A-B = length of the dress
A-D = Shoulder/2 minus 1/2"
D-C = 1.5"
A-E = neck depth
Square out from E.
E-F = A-D
A-H =  1/4 bust
H-I = 1/4 bust + 3/4 inch ease
Draw a curved line from I to F to shape the armhole.
O-I = H-N = 1 inch
Join N-O.
B-J = 1/4 chest + 2"
Join I and J.

This is your basic pinafore pattern.

If you want to add ruffles at the bottom (I wanted to add it) in a contrast fabric, you should subtract the width of the ruffle from the length of the dress (I kept the ruffle width 5 inches for the dress I made).

In the pattern, B to K marks the ruffle width. Square out from K and mark L where the line meets I-J.
L-M = 3/4 inch. Draw a curved line from M to shape the hemline of the body of the dress.

Now we are going to separate the pattern pieces and add seam allowances.

Discard the ruffle piece from the pattern draft above and create a new one with the same width, but length twice as that of BJ.

Add 0.25 inch seam allowances except for the sides and for the hem of the ruffle piece for which it should be 0.5 inch.

(Note: Measure CGE and multiply it by 4. Let us call this the neckline measurement. Now measure your kid's head circumference. Compare this with the neckline measurement. If the neckline measurement is less than the head circumference, then you can either reduce the width of the straps, or you can make a slit at the center back and sew button flaps. You can also sew buttonholes to the front end of the straps and sew buttons on the front yoke piece.)

I have already posted the sewing tutorial here. But I felt there are fewer photos in that tutorial which might make it hard to understand. Therefore, I will post a new tutorial as early as possible. This will be a little different from the previous one I shared. Watch out for it.

You can find the detailed how to sew tutorial here.

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