Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Pattern Draft---Empire Waist Dress Back

Step 8:

The pattern draft for the front part of the dress is over. Now we will draft the pattern for the back.

All the points are marked as in the front draft except a few. A to F is the back neck depth which is as per your preference. I have marked it 1.5 inches.

Mark M 0.5 inch from L. Mark N 1 inch from I. Join G-M-N-I to shape the back armhole. Other measurements are same including the dart. Draw the empire line as you did for the front side.

Step 9:

Cut through the empire line to get the back bodice and skirt pieces.

Back Bodice:

The only change to the back bodice is to mark the new dart base point X and extend the dart legs to increase the dart intake to 0.50 inch (this will be 0.75 for persons above 14 years) as you did for the front.

Step 10:

Unfold the back bodice draft and cut through the center back to separate right and left back pieces. Draw the seam allowances. It is 0.5 inch on all the sides except for the neckline and for joining the button and buttonhole closures, for which a 0.25 inch seam allowance is required. Extend the dart legs as shown in the figure.

I joined the button and buttonhole closures separately. They are drafted as follows:

The left one is for button closure.

A to B = C to D = Center back length + 1.5 inch (1 inch for fold at the neckline and 0.5 inch for seam at the waistline.) 

A to C = B to D = 2.5 inches

The right one is for buttonhole closure.

E to F = G to H = Center back length + 1.5 inch (1 inch for fold at the neckline and 0.5 inch for seam at the waistline.)

E to G = F to H =  1.5 inches

Step 11:

Back skirt:

Extend the dart legs as you did for the front skirt. Mark X 1 inch from Q and draw a curved line connecting B and X.

Step 12:

Add seam allowances---0.5 inch for waist and sides and 1.25 inch for hemline fold.

Tomorrow I will show you how to draft the sleeves.

You can see how to draft the front here.


  1. Very sweet of you to share this! Thanks so much!!

  2. Thank you for sharing! Just finished mine and your graphs helped a lot!

  3. hi, a question maybe sounds stupid but I am very new with sewing, can I use these instructions for adults? what confused me the inches I have to add, are they the same with all sizes? thank you so much for all. yours maha

  4. hi flora... thank u for the pattern. I have made the draft and now will make the toile.