Thursday, January 26, 2012

Pattern Draft---Empire Waist Dress Sleeves and Bow

Sorry for the delay in posting the draft for the sleeves.

Step 13: The sleeve I used in this dress is a set-in puff sleeve with fullness only at the hemline (no fullness at the capline). You may need a basic sleeve pattern to understand the drafting of a puff sleeve.

Basic sleeve draft:

A to E = E to B = 1/8 chest + 2.5 inches

Draw a vertical line from E which meets the line CD at point F such that C to F = F to D =  1/8 chest + 2.5 inches

A to H = B to G = 1/8 chest

S to F = F to T = half sleeve round at hemline + 0.5 inch for ease

E to I = E to M = 1 inch

Sleeve front:

Join G and I.

G to K = 1.5 inches

Join K and I.

J is the midpoint of GI. Mark L 0.5 inch from J.

Shape the front armhole GLE as shown in the figure.

Sleeve back:

Join H and M.

N is the midpoint of HM.

P is the midpoint of HN.

O is the midpoint of NM.

Mark Q 0.5 inch from N and mark R 0.5 inch from O.

Shape the back armhole HPQRM as shown in the figure.

L and N will be your front and back notches.

Your basic sleeve pattern will look like this once cut out:

Add seam allowances on all the sides---0.25 inch at the sleeve cap, 0.5 inch on the sides, and 1.5 inches at the hemline to fold and hem.

Pattern draft for puff sleeve with fullness at hemline:

Make the following changes to the basic sleeve draft without seam allowances.

Extend the center line from F. Mark X 2 inches from C.

Mark U and V 0.75 inch from S and T, respectively.

Draw lines from X on both sides that pass through U and V. Refer to the figure. 

Mark Y and Z 2 inches (you can increase this measure according to the fullness you require) from U and V, respectively.

Draw lines from H and G that pass through Y and Z, respectively.

Measure the distance from H to U as well as from G to V.

Use this measure to mark I and J.

Connect IXJ using a curved line.

This is how your puffed sleeve will look like:

Add seam allowances on all the sides---0.25 inch at the sleeve cap, 0.5 inch on the sides, and 0.25 inch at the hemline if you attach a sleeve band, 1 inch otherwise to fold and hem.

There is also another method called "slash and spread," which I will discuss in a later post.

Sleeve band:

A to B = C to D = Sleeve round + 1 inch ease + 1 inch for seam allowance on the sides.

A to C = B to D = width of the band = 1.5 inches (with 0.25-inch seam and hem allowances included. You can increase or decrease the width of the band, but it should not be less than 0.75 inch.)

Draft for Bow:


Bow center piece:

1 comment:

  1. Hi Flora,
    Is A to E = E to B = 1/8 chest + 2.5 inches , a standard calculation. Dont you use the armhole measure anywhere to ensure that the armhole and sleeve fit perfectly ? just curious ? can you please help me understand this ?
    Thank u